Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Triethylhexanoin

Niacinamide

Squalane

Cyclodextrin

Glycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Grifola Frondosa Fruiting Body Extract

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Arginine

Retinal

Withania Somnifera Root Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Oil

Ceramide EOP

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Xanthan Gum

Tocopherol

Carbomer

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Diheptyl Succinate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phytosterols

Propanediol

Benzyl Glycol

Raspberry Ketone

Water, Butylene Glycol, Triethylhexanoin, Niacinamide, Squalane, Cyclodextrin, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Grifola Frondosa Fruiting Body Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Arginine, Retinal, Withania Somnifera Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Diheptyl Succinate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phytosterols, Propanediol, Benzyl Glycol, Raspberry Ketone

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Panthenol

Proline

Tocopheryl Acetate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Dilinoleic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Bisabolol

Caprylyl Glycol

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dipropylene Glycol

Erythritol

Glucose

1,2-Hexanediol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Glyceryl Stearate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polysorbate 20

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Glycine

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Benzoate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Lactate

Triheptanoin

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Propanediol, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Proline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dilinoleic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.

You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.

The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.

Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.

You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.

According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:

One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.

Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.

This ingredient is water-soluble.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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