Skin science article
Yuderma Renewcell Vitamin-C + Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Sesderma C-Vit Lipossomal Serum
Yuderma Renewcell Vitamin-C + Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Sesderma C-Vit Lipossomal Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This brightening ser
Yuderma Renewcell Vitamin-C + Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Sesderma C-Vit Lipossomal Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ascorbic Acid
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid 5%
Ascorbyl Glucoside 5%
Punica Granatum Extract
Glutathione
Ferulic Acid
Lactic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Tocopherol
Niacinamide
Allantoin
Tetrahydropiperine
Bisabolol
Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid 5%, Ascorbyl Glucoside 5%, Punica Granatum Extract, Glutathione, Ferulic Acid, Lactic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Niacinamide, Allantoin, Tetrahydropiperine, Bisabolol
Water
Glycerin
Propylene Glycol
Propanediol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether
Quercetin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Morus Alba Root Extract
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Lecithin
Alcohol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polysorbate 20
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Chloride
BHT
Triethanolamine
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Cholate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Retinyl Palmitate
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Sorbate
Parfum
Citronellyl Methylcrotonate
Limonene
Linalool
Citral
CI 15985
Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Propanediol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether, Quercetin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Morus Alba Root Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Lecithin, Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chloride, BHT, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Cholate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, CI 15985
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.