ZO Skin Health Brightalive® Versus IMAGE skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Serum

ZO Skin Health Brightalive® Versus IMAGE skincare Iluma Intense Brightening Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Arbutin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Niacinamide

Caprylyl Methicone

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Cetyl Alcohol

PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer

Tranexamic Acid

Acetyl Glucosamine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Diglucosyl Gallic Acid

Beta-Glucan

Papain

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide

Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Bidens Pilosa Extract

Tocopherol

Sodium Bisulfite

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ascorbic Acid

Retinyl Palmitate

Xanthan Gum

Polyisobutene

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 20

Disodium EDTA

1,2-Hexanediol

Carbomer

Algin

Sodium Hydroxide

Parfum

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Pentylene Glycol

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Caprylyl Methicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Tranexamic Acid, Acetyl Glucosamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Papain, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Palmitoyl Sh-Octapeptide-24 Amide, Palmitoyl Sh-Tripeptide-5 Norisoleucyl Sh-Nonapeptide-1, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Tocopherol, Sodium Bisulfite, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Xanthan Gum, Polyisobutene, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Algin, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Pentylene Glycol

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Algae Extract

Artemisia Vulgaris Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract

Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer

Hexylresorcinol

Arbutin

Azelaic Acid

Sucrose Palmitate

Pueraria Tuberosa Leaf Cell Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Hydrolyzed Corallina Officinalis

Morus Alba Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Rumex Occidentalis Extract

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Salix Nigra Bark Extract

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Potassium Sorbate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate

Water, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Algae Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer, Hexylresorcinol, Arbutin, Azelaic Acid, Sucrose Palmitate, Pueraria Tuberosa Leaf Cell Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Hydrolyzed Corallina Officinalis, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Rumex Occidentalis Extract, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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