Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense Versus IMAGE skincare ORMEDIC Balancing Antioxidant Serum

ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense Versus IMAGE skincare ORMEDIC Balancing Antioxidant Serum This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Laminaria Digitata Extract and Beta-Glucan to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This calming serum is

ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense Versus IMAGE skincare ORMEDIC Balancing Antioxidant Serum

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Laminaria Digitata Extract and Beta-Glucan to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This calming serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Niacinamide to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Steareth-20

Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract

Marrubium Vulgare Meristem Cell Culture

Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Micrococcus Lysate

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

Lactose

Galactoarabinan

Lecithin

Schizophyllan

Beta-Glucan

1,2-Hexanediol

Carbomer

Cellulose

Maltodextrin

C14-22 Alcohols

Cetearyl Glucoside

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

CI 77007

Limonene

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Steareth-20, Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Meristem Cell Culture, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Micrococcus Lysate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Lactose, Galactoarabinan, Lecithin, Schizophyllan, Beta-Glucan, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Cellulose, Maltodextrin, C14-22 Alcohols, Cetearyl Glucoside, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, CI 77007, Limonene

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Propanediol

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water

Polysorbate 20

Beta Vulgaris Root Extract

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Aminomethyl Propanol

Copper PCA

Glycine

Niacinamide

Lactic Acid

Citric Acid

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Haberlea Rhodopensis Leaf Extract

Yeast Extract

Levulinic Acid

P-Anisic Acid

Glyceryl Caprylate

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Pectin

Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Propanediol, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Limonene, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Copper PCA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine, Niacinamide, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Haberlea Rhodopensis Leaf Extract, Yeast Extract, Levulinic Acid, P-Anisic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Pectin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Image Skincare Ageless Total Miccroderm ExfoliatorIngredients explained

  1. 01Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  2. 02It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  3. 03Expand to read more
  4. 04Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  5. 05One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  6. 06We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
  7. 07A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  8. 08A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  9. 09Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  10. 10Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  11. 11High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
  12. 12A kind of polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that helps to create beautiful gel-like textures. It's also a texturizer and thickener for oil-in-water emulsions. It gives products a good skin feel and does not make the formula tacky or sticky.
  13. 13It works over a wide pH range and is used between 0.5-1.2%.
  14. 14It’s a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), that is often referred to as next generation AHA
  15. 15It gently lifts off dead skin cells form the skin surface making skin smooth and even
  16. 16In the long term it provides anti-aging benefits, like increased skin thickness and decreased wrinkles (though a tad less than even more proven superstar AHAs)
  17. 17It’s a great moisturizer and even helps to repair impaired skin barrier
  18. 18It’s antioxidant, and does not make your skin more sensitive to the sun
  19. 19It can be used even if your skin is very sensitive, rosacea prone or if you are post cosmetic procedure
  20. 20Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA.
Source · incidecoder.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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