Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Product and ingredient reference

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum (Discontinued)

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum (Discontinued) Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum ingredients explained: Water, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Sea Whip Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide Np, Ceramide Ap, Ceramide

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum (Discontinued) Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief Repairing Serum ingredients explained: Water, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Sea Whip Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide Np, Ceramide Ap, Ceramide Eop, Cholesterol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Ubiquinone, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Magnesium Aspartate, Potassium Aspartate, Sarcosine, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Peg/Ppg-14/4 Dimethicone, Disodium Edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol Show all ingredients by function Water solvent Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 superstar Hyaluronic Acid goodie Beta-Glucan soothing, moisturizer/​humectant Sea Whip Extract Sodium Hyaluronate Ceramide Np skin-identical ingredient Ceramide Ap Ceramide Eop Cholesterol skin-identical ingredient, emollient Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract soothing, skin brightening Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract Phytosphingosine skin-identical ingredient, cell-communicating ingredient, anti-acne, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids surfactant/​cleansing, surfactant/​cleansing Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower Extract Glycine Soja Seed Extract antioxidant, skin brightening, soothing, emollient Ubiquinone antioxidant Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate emulsifying Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient Magnesium Aspartate Potassium Aspartate Sarcosine Xanthan Gum viscosity controlling Carbomer 0, 1 Polysorbate 20 emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing Peg/Ppg-14/4 Dimethicone Disodium Edta chelating Ethylhexylglycerin preservative Phenoxyethanol Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40% High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin It’s naturally in our skin and behaves there like a sponge It can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water It is a big molecule from repeated subunits (polymer) so different molecular weight versions exist (unfortunately there is no way to determine MW from INCI list only) High-molecular-weight-HA (>500 kDa) is an excellent surface hydrator, skin protectant and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to penetrate deeper into the skin Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin) Low-molecular-weight-HA might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense (~ 200kDa used in the study) Ultra-low-molecular-weight-HA (<50kDa) is a controversial ingredient and might work as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule Beta-Glucan is a nice big molecule composed of many smaller sugar molecules (called polysaccharide). It’s in the cell walls of yeast, some mushrooms, seaweeds, and cereals. It’s a real goodie no matter if you eat it or put it on your face. Eating it is anti-diabetic, anti-cancer, and even lowers blood cholesterol. Putting it on your face also does a bunch of good things: it‘s shown to have intensive skin repairing & wound healing properties, it’s a mild antioxidant, a great skin soother, and moisturizer, and it even shows promising anti-aging benefits. The manufacturer of the ingredient did a published study with 27 people and examined the effect of 0.1% beta-glucan. They found that despite the large molecular size the smaller factions of beta-glucan penetrate into the skin, even into the dermis (the middle layer of the skin where wrinkles form). After 8 weeks there was a significant reduction of wrinkle depth and height and skin roughness has also improved greatly. what‑it‑does skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant irritancy, com. soothing | moisturizer/humectant skin-identical ingredient | emollient soothing | skin brightening skin-identical ingredient | cell-communicating ingredient | anti-acne | antimicrobial/antibacterial surfactant/cleansing | surfactant/cleansing antioxidant | skin brightening | soothing | emollient emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing

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