Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer

Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer ingredients explained: Water (Aqua), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C/Antioxidant), Cetyl Alcohol (Vitamin C/Antioxidant), Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate (Texture Enhancer), Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (Emulsifier), Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient), PEG-100 Stearate (Texture Enhancer), Glycerin (Skin-Replenishing), PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate (Hydration), Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Emollient), Dimethicone (Emollient), Glyceryl Ascorbate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C/Antioxidants), Retinol (Vitamin A/Skin-Restoring), Ceramide NP, Ceramide NS, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide EOS, Cholesterol, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine (Skin-Replenishing), Squalane (Emollient), Punica Granatum Fruit Extract (Pomegranate/Antioxidant), Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil (Non-Fragrant Plant Oil/Antioxidant), Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Skin-Soothing), Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract (Antioxidant), T Show all ingredients by function Water (Aqua) solvent Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C/Antioxidant) antioxidant, anti-acne goodie Cetyl Alcohol (Vitamin C/Antioxidant) emollient, viscosity controlling 2, 2 Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate (Texture Enhancer) emollient Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (Emulsifier) emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing Glyceryl Stearate (Emollient) emollient, emulsifying 0, 1 PEG-100 Stearate (Texture Enhancer) surfactant/​cleansing, emulsifying 0, 0 Glycerin (Skin-Replenishing) skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant superstar PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate (Hydration) Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Emollient) Dimethicone (Emollient) Glyceryl Ascorbate antioxidant, moisturizer/​humectant Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C/Antioxidants) antioxidant, skin brightening Retinol (Vitamin A/Skin-Restoring) cell-communicating ingredient Ceramide NP skin-identical ingredient Ceramide NS Ceramide AP Ceramide EOP Ceramide EOS Cholesterol skin-identical ingredient, emollient Caprooyl Phytosphingosine Caprooyl Sphingosine (Skin-Replenishing) Squalane (Emollient) Punica Granatum Fruit Extract (Pomegranate/Antioxidant) Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil (Non-Fragrant Plant Oil/Antioxidant) preservative Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Skin-Soothing) soothing, skin brightening Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract (Antioxidant) antioxidant, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E/Antioxidant) antioxidant Carnosine (Skin-Restoring) antioxidant, cell-communicating ingredient Panthenol (Hydration) soothing, moisturizer/​humectant Sodium PCA (Skin-Replenishing) Butylene Glycol (Hydration) moisturizer/​humectant, solvent Sodium Citrate (Ph Adjuster) chelating, buffering Ceteareth-25 (Texture Enhancer) Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifier) Ethylhexyl Stearate (Emollient) Sodium Hydroxide (Ph Adjuster) buffering Trideceth-6 (Emulsifier) Propyl Gallate (Antioxidant) antioxidant, perfuming Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer viscosity controlling Sodium Polyacrylate (Film-Forming Agents) Behenic Acid (Texture Enhancer) Disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent) chelating Phenoxyethanol Caprylyl Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, emollient Chlorphenesin (Preservatives) preservative, antimicrobial/​antibacterial Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Expand to read more Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. The sodium salt form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. If you do not know what the big fuss about vitamin C is, you are missing out and you have to click here and read all the geeky details about it. Pure vitamin C (aka ascorbic acid, AA) is great and all, but its lack of stability is a big challenge for the cosmetics industry. One solution is to create stable derivatives that can be absorbed into the skin, convert there to AA and do all the magic AA is proven to do (which is being an antioxidant, a collagen booster, and a skin brightener). SAP (the vit C derivative, not the enterprise software, obvs) is a promising derivative that has great stability up to pH 7. The challenge with it though is skin penetration. Unfortunately, it seems to be limited, or to quote a great article from the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology "topically applied ascorbyl phosphate salts are, at very best, poorly absorbed in comparison with AA". Regarding conversion to AA, there seems to be no data about it, so we can neither deny nor confirm it. We have better news regarding the three magic abilities of vitamin C: there is in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that SAP does have photo-protective (aka antioxidant) properties, though less than pure AA. SAP might also aid collagen boosting; in-vitro (made in the lab) data shows that it works, but is less effective than another vitamin C derivative, called MAP (that seems to be as effective as pure AA). As for skin-brightening, there is a trade publication with in-vivo data showing that SAP can fade brown spots. Another thing SAP might be able to do is to help with acne. A 2005 study showed in vitro (in test tubes) that 1% SAP has a strong antimicrobial activity on evil acne causing P. acnes and it also showed in vivo (on real people) that 5% SAP can strongly improve the inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions of acne vulgaris. In fact, the results were comparable or even slightly better than with 5% benzoyl peroxide. And there is even more regarding SAP and acne. A nice double-blind study from 2009 showed that 5% SAP reduced the inflammatory lesions by 20.14% and 48.82% within 4 and 8 weeks respectively and when combined with 0.2% retinol the results were even better. With this combination treatment, the improvement was 29.28% after 4 weeks and 63.10% after 8 weeks of what‑it‑does antioxidant | anti-acne emollient | viscosity controlling irritancy, com. emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing emollient | emulsifying surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant antioxidant | skin brightening skin-identical ingredient | emollient soothing | skin brightening antioxidant | antimicrobial/antibacterial antioxidant | cell-communicating ingredient soothing | moisturizer/humectant moisturizer/humectant | solvent chelating | buffering antioxidant | perfuming moisturizer/humectant | emollient preservative | antimicrobial/antibacterial

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