Allies of Skin Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Moisture Infusion Cream

Allies of Skin Peptides & Antioxidants Advanced Firming Daily Treatment Versus Peter Thomas Roth Peptide Skinjection Moisture Infusion Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Ferulic Acid and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Hexapeptide-11 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isononyl Isononanoate

Glycerin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polysorbate 60

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Mannitol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Lactobacillus Ferment

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Ferulic Acid

Ceramide NP

Caffeine

Honey

Phospholipids

Sphingolipids

Hyaluronic Acid

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Glutathione

Ergothioneine

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Waltheria Indica Leaf Extract

Lecithin

Astaxanthin

Tocopherol

Biotin

Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Teprenone

Sorbitan Olivate

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Dextrin

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Dextran

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Sodium Gluconate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Citric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Citrate

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Dehydroacetate

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 20

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 60, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Mannitol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ferulic Acid, Ceramide NP, Caffeine, Honey, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Glutathione, Ergothioneine, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Waltheria Indica Leaf Extract, Lecithin, Astaxanthin, Tocopherol, Biotin, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Teprenone, Sorbitan Olivate, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Dextrin, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dextran, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Gluconate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

Dimethicone

Olive Oil Decyl Esters

Glycereth-26

Squalane

Behenyl Alcohol

Polysilicone-11

Batyl Alcohol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Hexapeptide-11

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-19

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Natto Gum

Sodium Polyglutamate

Squalene

Mica

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sorbic Acid

Cereus Grandiflorus Flower Extract

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Magnesium Chloride

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearyl Alcohol

Trehalose

Glyceryl Stearate

Silanetriol Trehalose Ether

Phytosterols

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Laureth-12

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Disodium Phosphate

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Lactate

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Sodium Phosphate

Xanthan Gum

Triethanolamine

Acrylates Copolymer

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Olive Oil Decyl Esters, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Polysilicone-11, Batyl Alcohol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Hexapeptide-11, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-19, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Natto Gum, Sodium Polyglutamate, Squalene, Mica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Cereus Grandiflorus Flower Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Magnesium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Trehalose, Glyceryl Stearate, Silanetriol Trehalose Ether, Mannitol, Phytosterols, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Laureth-12, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lecithin, Disodium Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Carbomer, Dextran, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Lactate, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Sodium Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Triethanolamine, Acrylates Copolymer

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.

Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.

Dimethyl Isosorbide (often shortened to DMI) is a sugar-derived solvent made from sorbitol. It's used to dissolve tricky ingredients and help them mix smoothly into a formula.

Many actives sit as gritty crystals when undissolved, so DMI swoops in to full dissolve them. This helps improve texture, stability, and how evenly an active is distributed.

It does have a penetration-enhancing reputation that is a bit more nuanced than marketing suggests; a cell study on human skin found that 10% DMI didn't significantly boost the permeation of Hydroquinone, Salicylic Acid, or Octadecenedioic Acid compared to controls (though it did improve their solubility in the formula itself).

Typical usage concentrations usually range from 1-10% depending on the formula's needs; this ingredient is also well tolerated at these levels.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.

Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.

This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Mannitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a humectant and moisturizes the skin. In vitro (not tested on a living organism), mannitol displays antioxidant properties.

When found in aqueous solutions, mannitol tends to become acidic. This is because it loses a hydrogen ion. This is why mannitol can often be found with pH adjusting ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate.

Fun fact: Mannitol can be found in foods as a sweetener. It can be naturally found in mushrooms, algae, fruits, and veggies.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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