Alya Skin Vitamin C Supercharged Serum Versus Paula's Choice Phytoestrogen Elasticity Renewal Serum

Alya Skin Vitamin C Supercharged Serum Versus Paula's Choice Phytoestrogen Elasticity Renewal Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Glycerin

Xanthan Gum

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Syzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil

Terminalia Bellerica Fruit

Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopherol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citrus Glauca Fruit Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Sodium Metabisulfite

Citric Acid

Citronellol

Geraniol

Linalool

Water, Propanediol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Syzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Terminalia Bellerica Fruit, Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Glauca Fruit Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Sodium Metabisulfite, Citric Acid, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool

Cyclodextrin

Coco-Caprylate

Squalane

Saccharide Isomerate

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Equol

Resveratrol

Cetyl Alcohol

Daidzein

Genistein

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Phospholipids

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Glycine Soja Oil

Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract

Sodium Phytate

Sodium Citrate

Water, Cyclodextrin, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Squalane, Saccharide Isomerate, Propanediol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Equol, Resveratrol, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Daidzein, Genistein, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine Soja Oil, Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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