Skin science article
Avène RetrinAL 0.05% Cream Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
Avène RetrinAL 0.05% Cream Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Asco
Avène RetrinAL 0.05% Cream Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Paraffinum Liquidum
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Squalane
Propylene Glycol
Microcrystalline Wax
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
BHT
Caprylyl Glycol
Carbomer
Disodium EDTA
Oleoyl Dipeptide-15
Oleoyl Tetrapeptide-31
CI 17200
Retinal
Tocopheryl Glucoside
Triethanolamine
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Squalane, Propylene Glycol, Microcrystalline Wax, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, BHT, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Oleoyl Dipeptide-15, Oleoyl Tetrapeptide-31, CI 17200, Retinal, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Triethanolamine
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Isononyl Isononanoate
Castor Isostearate Succinate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
PEG-33
Polysorbate 20
Behenyl Alcohol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Retinol
Ceramide Ng
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Sodium Hyaluronate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Arctium Lappa Seed Oil
Salix Alba Extract
Glycine Soja Sterols
Lecithin
Allantoin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Sorbitan Laurate
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Sodium Hydroxide
Tribehenin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Pentylene Glycol
PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
PEG-10 Phytosterol
PEG-8 Dimethicone
PEG-14
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Arachidyl Glucoside
Arachidyl Alcohol
Sclerotium Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Benzoic Acid
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-33, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Salix Alba Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sorbitan Laurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!