Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Dot & Key Skincare Cica Calming Mattifying Sunscreen SPF 50+
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Dot & Key Skincare Cica Calming Mattifying Sunscreen SPF 50+ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Dot & Key Skincare Cica Calming Mattifying Sunscreen SPF 50+
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Niacinamide
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylyl Methicone
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Adenosine
Xanthan Gum
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Octocrylene
Propylene Glycol
Sodium Phosphate
Phenoxyethanol
Methylpropanediol
Titanium Dioxide
Silica
Dimethicone
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Lecithin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cyclopentasiloxane
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
Sorbitan Stearate
Sucrose Cocoate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Trideceth-6
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Allantoin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide NP
Ceramide As
Ceramide AP
Cholesterol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Citric Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Sodium Gluconate
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Dimethicone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Ethylhexyl Triazone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sucrose Cocoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Trideceth-6, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Gluconate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Oryza Sativa Extract comes from the rice grain, Oryza sativa. Rice extract has wound healing, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties.
Rice grains contain numerous antioxidants which may help with anti-aging, such as vitamin E. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radical molecules. Unstable free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and accelerate signs of aging.
A study from 2002 found rice to help increase the rate of wound healing. The same study found an improvement of skin barrier function in the patients after taking rice baths.
Numerous in-vitro studies have found rice water to help decrease sun damage by increasing collagen production and inhibiting the process of tyrosinase.
Long story short- tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls melanin production. Our bodies start producing melanin (AKA tanning) when exposed to UV radiation to protect against damage. Rice water is found to partially block this process.
Though more research is needed on rice's ability to help with UV protection, recent studies seem promising.
Wondering why rice is hydrating? The protein in rice have emollient properties. Emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in, keeping your skin moisturized.
Some rice extract may have mildly-exfoliating properties. These are mainly limited to Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran and Oryza Sativa (Rice) Germ Powder.
This rice was first cultivated in China over 10,000 years ago. Many cultures throughout Asia have used rice water on skin and hair for centuries.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!