Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Celimax New The Real Noni Refresh Clay Mask Versus PCA Skin Detoxifying Mask

Celimax New The Real Noni Refresh Clay Mask Versus PCA Skin Detoxifying Mask This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Bentonite for a rinse-off oil-control boost. This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Charcoal Powder for a rinse-off oil-control boost. W

Celimax New The Real Noni Refresh Clay Mask Versus PCA Skin Detoxifying Mask

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Bentonite for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Charcoal Powder for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Morinda Citrifolia Extract 30%

Kaolin

Water

Bentonite

Glycerin

Propanediol

Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

CI 77492

Butylene Glycol

CI 77499

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

Ethylhexylglycerin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Agrimonia Eupatoria Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Amara Kernel Oil

Allantoin

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract

Saponaria Officinalis Extract

Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract

Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Morinda Citrifolia Extract 30%, Kaolin, Water, Bentonite, Glycerin, Propanediol, Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, CI 77492, Butylene Glycol, CI 77499, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Ethylhexylglycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Agrimonia Eupatoria Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Amara Kernel Oil, Allantoin, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Saponaria Officinalis Extract, Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract, Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Charcoal Powder

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Water, Kaolin, Charcoal Powder, Glycerin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.

Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.

Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.

The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.

Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  7. 07Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  8. 08Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  9. 09Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  10. 10Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  11. 11It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  12. 12Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  13. 13A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  14. 14Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  15. 15It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  16. 16On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  17. 17Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  18. 18You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
  19. 19Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
  20. 20Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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