CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Ascorbic Acid

Propanediol

Dimethicone

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Isostearate

Sodium Hydroxide

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Panthenol

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Carbomer

Copernicia Cerifera Cera

Cetearyl Glucoside

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Triethyl Citrate

Caffeine

Silica

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Cholesterol

Phenoxyethanol

Tocopherol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydroxyacetophenone

Citric Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Xanthan Gum

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Phytosphingosine

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Benzoic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Cetearyl Glucoside, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Triethyl Citrate, Caffeine, Silica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Benzoic Acid

Squalane

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Triethylhexanoin

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ubiquinone

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Salvia Sclarea Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Viola Odorata Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Tapioca Starch

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder

Sphingomonas Ferment Extract

Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Lavandula Spica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Mentha Piperita Oil

Carnosine

Allantoin

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Beta-Glucan

Mannitol

Bisabolol

Trehalose

Lactobacillus Ferment

1,2-Hexanediol

Steareth-21

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Aminomethyl Propanol

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Cellulose Gum

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Linalool

Citral

Water, Panthenol, Squalane, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Propanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ubiquinone, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Viola Odorata Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Tapioca Starch, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Lavandula Spica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Mentha Piperita Oil, Tocopherol, Carnosine, Allantoin, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Beta-Glucan, Caffeine, Mannitol, Bisabolol, Trehalose, Lactobacillus Ferment, 1,2-Hexanediol, Steareth-21, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Linalool, Citral

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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