Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus La Roche-Posay Pigmentclar EYES

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus La Roche-Posay Pigmentclar EYES This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This brightening eye moisturizer i

CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus La Roche-Posay Pigmentclar EYES

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Caffeine to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Ascorbic Acid

Propanediol

Dimethicone

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Isostearate

Sodium Hydroxide

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Panthenol

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Carbomer

Copernicia Cerifera Cera

Cetearyl Glucoside

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Triethyl Citrate

Caffeine

Silica

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Cholesterol

Phenoxyethanol

Tocopherol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydroxyacetophenone

Citric Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Xanthan Gum

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Phytosphingosine

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Benzoic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Cetearyl Glucoside, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Triethyl Citrate, Caffeine, Silica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Benzoic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Isopropyl Palmitate

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin

Stearic Acid

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethiconol

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Palmitic Acid

Alumina

Phenylethyl Resorcinol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Poloxamer 338

Disodium EDTA

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Ferulic Acid

CI 77491

CI 77492

CI 77499

CI 77891

Mica

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Caffeine, Sodium Hydroxide, Silica, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Palmitic Acid, Alumina, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Poloxamer 338, Disodium EDTA, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ferulic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77891, Mica

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  4. 04Propanediol
  5. 05Cetearyl Alcohol
  6. 06Betaine
  7. 07Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
  8. 08Panthenol
  9. 09Glyceryl Stearate
  10. 10PEG-100 Stearate
  11. 11Pentylene Glycol
  12. 12Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  13. 13Cetearyl Glucoside
  14. 14Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
  15. 15Acacia Farnesiana Flower Wax
  16. 16Caffeine
  17. 17Steareth-21
  18. 18Dimethicone
  19. 19Carbomer
  20. 20Chlorphenesin
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Fig.1 Beauty Vitamin C Eye Cream

Fig.1 Beauty Vitamin C Eye Cream Ingredients in Fig.1 Beauty Vitamin C Eye Cream explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 46 ingredients including Water, Simmondsia Chinensis…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →

Product

Face facts Vitamin C Eye Cream

Face facts Vitamin C Eye Cream Face facts Vitamin C Eye Cream ingredients explained: Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Steareth-20, Xanthan Gum, Cete…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

DOSE by VH Vitamin C Eye Cream

DOSE by VH Vitamin C Eye Cream DOSE by VH Vitamin C Eye Cream ingredients explained: Aqua (Water), Propanediol, Glycerin, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Prun…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side