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Skin science article

Cetaphil Healthy Renew Eye Gel Serum Versus CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Eye Cream

Cetaphil Healthy Renew Eye Gel Serum Versus CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging eye moisturizer

Cetaphil Healthy Renew Eye Gel Serum Versus CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Panthenol

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

C13-15 Alkane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Silica

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vinyldimethicone

C14-22 Alcohols

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Polyacrylate-13

C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside

Oryza Sativa Lees Extract

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

Polyisobutene

Hydrolyzed Soy Flour

Adenosine

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Butylene Glycol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Acacia Senegal Gum

Citric Acid

Agar

Caprylyl Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Benzoate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Buddleja Davidii Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Extract

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, C13-15 Alkane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Silica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vinyldimethicone, C14-22 Alcohols, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyacrylate-13, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Oryza Sativa Lees Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyisobutene, Hydrolyzed Soy Flour, Adenosine, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Citric Acid, Agar, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Benzoate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Dimethicone

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Isostearate

Sodium Hydroxide

PEG-100 Stearate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Carbomer

Copernicia Cerifera Cera

Cetearyl Glucoside

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Triethyl Citrate

Caffeine

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Cholesterol

Phenoxyethanol

Tocopherol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydroxyacetophenone

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Phytosphingosine

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Benzoic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Cetearyl Glucoside, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Triethyl Citrate, Caffeine, Silica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Benzoic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine.
  4. 04This peptide is considered a neurotransmitter peptide, meaning it has pain-relieving and relaxing properties. It has the ability to calm skin irritation from external factors such as chemical stinging or heat.
  5. 05Neurotransmitter peptides are also often called "botox in a bottle". This is because these peptides have the ability to relax the muscles.
  6. 06Though relaxing the muscles can prevent expression lines (as we have seen in botox), the studies do not show these peptides to be a botox replacement. The effects of this muscle relaxation is also short-term, as opposed to longer-term results from botox.
  7. 07This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
  8. 08Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  9. 09In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
  10. 10Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
  11. 11Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
  12. 12While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
  13. 13This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
  14. 14Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  15. 15What it does:
  16. 16Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  17. 17Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  18. 18Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
  19. 19This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
  20. 20Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Source · skinsort.com
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