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Skin science article

Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus Glow Recipe Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum

Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus Glow Recipe Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum This wash off mask is made with Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 for a rinse-off barrier-support boost. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tr

Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus Glow Recipe Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum

This wash off mask is made with Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 for a rinse-off barrier-support boost.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Punica Granatum Fruit Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propanediol

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Carbomer

Saccharide Isomerate

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Pullulan

CI 77891

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Hydroxide

C12-13 Alkyl Lactate

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Chondrus Crispus Powder

Bisabolol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract

Phytic Acid

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Citrate

Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax

Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Citric Acid

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Centella Asiatica Extract

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Biotin

Citronellol

Geraniol

Linalool

Citral

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Carbomer, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Pullulan, CI 77891, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hydroxide, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Phytic Acid, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Citrate, Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citric Acid, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Centella Asiatica Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Biotin, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral

Acacia Senegal Gum

Squalane

Copper Tripeptide-1

Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Tocopherol

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract

Elastin

Bidens Pilosa Extract

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Enteromorpha Compressa Extract

Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Trihydroxystearin

Dilauryl Citrate

Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Rhizobian Gum

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Sorbitan Laurate

Glucomannan

Parfum

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Pullulan, Squalane, Copper Tripeptide-1, Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Elastin, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Trihydroxystearin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dilauryl Citrate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Rhizobian Gum, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Sorbitan Laurate, Glucomannan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Pullulan is a low viscosity polysaccharide (a long chain carbohydrate) with binding and film forming properties when dissolved in water. It is used to create a "silicone-like" or silky feel in cosmetics without adding viscosity.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's ability to easily dissolves makes it a great carrier for active ingredients.

Due to it being edible and tasteless, you'll likely find this ingredient in breath freshener strips. This ingredient is produced from the starch of the fungus, Aureobasidium pullulans.

Pullulan is stable over a broad-range of pH.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  4. 04The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  5. 05Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  14. 14It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  15. 15On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  16. 16Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  17. 17You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
  18. 18Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
  19. 19Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
  20. 20Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

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