Skin science article
Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus Glow Recipe Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum
Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus Glow Recipe Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum This wash off mask is made with Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 for a rinse-off barrier-support boost. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tr
Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus Glow Recipe Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum
This wash off mask is made with Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 for a rinse-off barrier-support boost.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Punica Granatum Fruit Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Propanediol
Glycerin
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Carbomer
Saccharide Isomerate
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Pullulan
CI 77891
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Hydroxide
C12-13 Alkyl Lactate
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Chondrus Crispus Powder
Bisabolol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil
Pentylene Glycol
Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract
Phytic Acid
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Citrate
Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax
Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax
Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
Citric Acid
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Centella Asiatica Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture
N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Biotin
Citronellol
Geraniol
Linalool
Citral
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Carbomer, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Pullulan, CI 77891, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hydroxide, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Phytic Acid, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Citrate, Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citric Acid, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Centella Asiatica Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Biotin, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral
Acacia Senegal Gum
Squalane
Copper Tripeptide-1
Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
Elastin
Bidens Pilosa Extract
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Enteromorpha Compressa Extract
Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Trihydroxystearin
Dilauryl Citrate
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Rhizobian Gum
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Sorbitan Laurate
Glucomannan
Parfum
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Pullulan, Squalane, Copper Tripeptide-1, Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Elastin, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Trihydroxystearin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dilauryl Citrate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Rhizobian Gum, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Sorbitan Laurate, Glucomannan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Pullulan is a low viscosity polysaccharide (a long chain carbohydrate) with binding and film forming properties when dissolved in water. It is used to create a "silicone-like" or silky feel in cosmetics without adding viscosity.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's ability to easily dissolves makes it a great carrier for active ingredients.
Due to it being edible and tasteless, you'll likely find this ingredient in breath freshener strips. This ingredient is produced from the starch of the fungus, Aureobasidium pullulans.
Pullulan is stable over a broad-range of pH.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!