Skin science article
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare DermInfusions™ Fill + Repair Serum Versus Glow Recipe Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare DermInfusions™ Fill + Repair Serum Versus Glow Recipe Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ectoin to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-ag
Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare DermInfusions™ Fill + Repair Serum Versus Glow Recipe Pomegranate Peptide Firming Serum
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ectoin to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Punica Granatum Fruit Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Butylene Glycol
Ectoin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Oligopeptide-2
Saccharide Isomerate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan
Bakuchiol
Inonotus Obliquus Extract
Tetrahydrocurcumin
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Phospholipids
Sphingolipids
Phytosphingosine
Colloidal Oatmeal
Bisabolol
Superoxide Dismutase
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Sodium PCA
Glutathione
Squalane
Caffeine
Panthenol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Acetyl Glutamine
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Withania Somnifera Root Extract
Glycolic Acid
Mandelic Acid
Lactobionic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Coco-Glucoside
Lauryl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Diheptyl Succinate
Dimethicone
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer
Vp/Va Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
Potassium Hydroxide
Polysorbate 20
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Carbomer
Cholesterol
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Sodium Metasilicate
Gluconolactone
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Raspberry Ketone
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Ectoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-2, Saccharide Isomerate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Bakuchiol, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Tetrahydrocurcumin, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Phytosphingosine, Colloidal Oatmeal, Bisabolol, Superoxide Dismutase, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Sodium PCA, Glutathione, Squalane, Caffeine, Panthenol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Acetyl Glutamine, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Withania Somnifera Root Extract, Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Diheptyl Succinate, Dimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer, Vp/Va Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Cholesterol, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Metasilicate, Gluconolactone, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Raspberry Ketone, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate
Propanediol
Acacia Senegal Gum
Pullulan
Copper Tripeptide-1
Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
Elastin
Bidens Pilosa Extract
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Enteromorpha Compressa Extract
Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract
Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
Trihydroxystearin
1,2-Hexanediol
Dilauryl Citrate
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Rhizobian Gum
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Sorbitan Laurate
Glucomannan
Sodium Hydroxide
Parfum
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Pullulan, Squalane, Copper Tripeptide-1, Sr-Hydrozoan Polypeptide-1, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Elastin, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Trihydroxystearin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dilauryl Citrate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Rhizobian Gum, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Sorbitan Laurate, Glucomannan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.
Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.
This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.
Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!