Skin science article
Clarins Total Eye Lift Versus La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream
Clarins Total Eye Lift Versus La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Madecassoside to soften t
Clarins Total Eye Lift Versus La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Madecassoside to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Propanediol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Betaine
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Panthenol
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Pentylene Glycol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cetearyl Glucoside
Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
Acacia Farnesiana Flower Wax
Caffeine
Steareth-21
Dimethicone
Carbomer
Chlorphenesin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Tocopheryl Acetate
CI 77891
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Disodium EDTA
Escin
Parfum
Butylene Glycol
Dimethiconol
Sodium Hydroxide
Alcohol
Harungana Madagascariensis Extract
Olea Europaea Fruit Extract
Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract
Sodium Benzoate
Tin Oxide
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Dextran
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Betaine, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Panthenol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Glucoside, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Acacia Farnesiana Flower Wax, Caffeine, Steareth-21, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, CI 77891, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disodium EDTA, Escin, Parfum, Butylene Glycol, Dimethiconol, Sodium Hydroxide, Alcohol, Harungana Madagascariensis Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Extract, Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Tin Oxide, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Dextran
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Ascorbic Acid
Mannose
Paraffinum Liquidum
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Cetyl Alcohol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Potassium Hydroxide
Paraffin
Sodium Styrene/Ma Copolymer
Microcrystalline Wax
Madecassoside
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Xanthan Gum
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Mannose, Butylene Glycol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Potassium Hydroxide, Paraffin, Sodium Styrene/Ma Copolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Madecassoside, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Dimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
This ingredient helps to create a silky texture and improve spreadability. Due to its high molecular weight and thickness, it is often combined with cyclopentasiloxane.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!