Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Coxir Intensive EGF Peptide Mask Pack Versus Mamonde Rose Water Gel Cream

Coxir Intensive EGF Peptide Mask Pack Versus Mamonde Rose Water Gel Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles. This calming moisturizer is formulated around Rosa Damascena Flower Wat

Coxir Intensive EGF Peptide Mask Pack Versus Mamonde Rose Water Gel Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Rosa Damascena Flower Water to calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Paraffinum Liquidum

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Sodium Hyaluronate

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Niacinamide

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Propylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 60

Cyclomethicone

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Betaine

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract

Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Ganoderma Lucidum Extract

Grifola Frondosa Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Fomes Officinalis Extract

Sarcodon Aspratus Extract

Trametes Versicolor Extract

Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Agaricus Blazei Extract

Tricholoma Matsutake Extract

Propolis Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Dimethicone

Arachidyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Arachidyl Glucoside

Polysorbate 20

Stearic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Arginine

Carbomer

Panthenol

Allantoin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Paraffinum Liquidum, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Cyclomethicone, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Betaine, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Grifola Frondosa Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Fomes Officinalis Extract, Sarcodon Aspratus Extract, Trametes Versicolor Extract, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Agaricus Blazei Extract, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Propolis Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Dimethicone, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Arginine, Carbomer, Panthenol, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Propanediol

Trehalose

Trisiloxane

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Caprylate

Glyceryl Stearate

Sucrose

CI 77491

Silica

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Tocopherol

Indole Acetic Acid

Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Trehalose, Trisiloxane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tromethamine, Parfum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sucrose, CI 77491, Silica, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Indole Acetic Acid

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a plant-derived emulsifier whose only job is to keep the oily and watery parts of a formula blended so it doesn't separate into layers.

It's compatible with a wide-range of active ingredients and especially good at making emulsions survive heat/freeze cycles.

Typical use concentrations range from 2-3% and it works across a pH of 4.5-8.5.

This ingredient has been found safe to use in cosmetics and has a low irritation profile.

Because it's build on stearic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that falls within the range (C11-24) that Malassezia can feed on.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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