D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Repair Cream Versus The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Repair Cream Versus The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Arginine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Squalane

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Carbomer

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Artemisia Annua Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment

Arginine

Octyldodecanol

Panthenol

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Pullulan

Tuber Magnatum Extract

Calamine

Centella Asiatica Extract

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Pentylene Glycol

Ceramide NP

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Alkanna Tinctoria Root Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Betaine Salicylate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Glucose

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Tocopherol

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Artemisia Annua Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Arginine, Octyldodecanol, Panthenol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pullulan, Tuber Magnatum Extract, Calamine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Alkanna Tinctoria Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Betaine Salicylate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glucose, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Cetyl Alcohol

Propanediol

Stearyl Alcohol

Aspartic Acid

Glycine

Alanine

Serine

Valine

Isoleucine

Proline

Threonine

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Maltose

Fructose

Trehalose

Sodium PCA

PCA

Sodium Lactate

Urea

Allantoin

Linoleic Acid

Oleic Acid

Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Lecithin

Triolein

Isoceteth-20

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Chloride

Citric Acid

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Triethanolamine

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Stearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Glucose, Maltose, Fructose, Trehalose, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sodium Lactate, Urea, Allantoin, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Lecithin, Triolein, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Pentylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.

Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.

It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.

Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.

Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.

In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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