Skin science article
D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Repair Cream Versus PURITO B5 Panthenol Re-Barrier Cream
D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Repair Cream Versus PURITO B5 Panthenol Re-Barrier Cream This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair moisturizer is fo
D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Repair Cream Versus PURITO B5 Panthenol Re-Barrier Cream
This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Squalane
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Carbomer
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Artemisia Annua Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment
Arginine
Octyldodecanol
Panthenol
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Pullulan
Tuber Magnatum Extract
Calamine
Centella Asiatica Extract
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Pentylene Glycol
Ceramide NP
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Alkanna Tinctoria Root Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Betaine Salicylate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Glucose
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Tocopherol
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Artemisia Annua Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Arginine, Octyldodecanol, Panthenol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pullulan, Tuber Magnatum Extract, Calamine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Alkanna Tinctoria Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Betaine Salicylate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glucose, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Panthenol 10%
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Tromethamine
Disodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
Madecassoside
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Copper Tripeptide-1
Madecassic Acid
Centella Asiatica Extract, Panthenol 10%, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Madecassic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!