Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream Versus Lancer Skincare Legacy Youth Treatment

Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream Versus Lancer Skincare Legacy Youth Treatment

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Ceramide NP to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Rice Ferment Filtrate and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Centella Asiatica Extract

Sorbitan Stearate

Cetyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearic Acid

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Ceramide NP

Polysorbate 60

Candelilla Cera

Chlorphenesin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Morus Alba Root Extract

Tromethamine

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Guaiazulene

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Lecithin

Acetyl Glutamine

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Ceramide NP, Polysorbate 60, Candelilla Cera, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Morus Alba Root Extract, Tromethamine, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Guaiazulene, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol

Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

Isosorbide Dicaprylate

Stearyl Alcohol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Isopropyl Palmitate

PEG-75 Stearate

Propanediol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Behenyl Alcohol

Cetyl Esters

Dimethicone

Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Glycine Soja Extract

Wasabia Japonica Leaf Extract

Rice Ferment Filtrate

Bacillus

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Crocus Sativus Flower Extract

Swertia Chirata Extract

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Phytosterols

Tocopherol

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Pentylene Glycol

Betaine

Ceteth-20

Steareth-20

Cyclodextrin

Polyisobutene

Squalene

Bakuchiol

Mica

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Citric Acid

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Sorbitan Oleate

Polyglutamic Acid

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

CI 77891

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Glycerin, PEG-75 Stearate, Propanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Esters, Dimethicone, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja Extract, Wasabia Japonica Leaf Extract, Rice Ferment Filtrate, Acetyl Glutamine, Bacillus, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Crocus Sativus Flower Extract, Swertia Chirata Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Phytosterols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Lecithin, Betaine, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Cyclodextrin, Polyisobutene, Squalene, Caprylyl Glycol, Bakuchiol, Mica, Xanthan Gum, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Polyglutamic Acid, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, 1,2-Hexanediol, CI 77891

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

We don't have a description for Acetyl Glutamine yet.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-11 is a signal protein that tells our skin to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a signal peptide that tells our body to create more blood vessels.

It is important to note, this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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