Skin science article
Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Balance Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer
Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Balance Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moi
Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Balance Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Butylene Glycol
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Cetyl Caprylate
Stearic Acid
PEG-8
Octyldodecanol
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate Se
PEG-100 Stearate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Ceramide NP
Phytosterols
Centella Asiatica Extract
Linoleic Acid
Echinacea Purpurea Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Extract
Palmitic Acid
Myristic Acid
Rosa Centifolia Extract
Lactic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Propanediol
Tocopherol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Cetyl Alcohol
Carbomer
Hydroxystearic Acid
Aminomethyl Propanol
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetyl Caprylate, Stearic Acid, PEG-8, Octyldodecanol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Se, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Ceramide NP, Phytosterols, Centella Asiatica Extract, Linoleic Acid, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Palmitic Acid, Myristic Acid, Rosa Centifolia Extract, Lactic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Propanediol, Tocopherol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Hydroxystearic Acid, Aminomethyl Propanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol
Ethyl Macadamiate
Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Triethylhexanoin
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root
Hydrolyzed Pumpkin Seedcake
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract
Niacinamide
Tripeptide-29
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Panthenol
Sodium PCA
Adenosine
Lecithin
Arginine
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Sodium Gluconate
Citric Acid
Isohexadecane
Xanthan Gum
Water, Ethyl Macadamiate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Hydrolyzed Pumpkin Seedcake, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Tripeptide-29, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Adenosine, Lecithin, Arginine, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Gluconate, Citric Acid, Isohexadecane, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!