Eqqualberry Bakuchiol Plumping Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum

Eqqualberry Bakuchiol Plumping Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bakuchiol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Acetate and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Pentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

Betaine

Ceramide NP

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Bakuchiol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Squalane

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Panthenol

Carbomer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Tromethamine

Xanthan Gum

Allantoin

Ethylhexylglycerin

2,3-Butanediol

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan

Glyceryl Stearate

Dipropylene Glycol

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract

Sodium Lactate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Cholesterol

Salvia Officinalis Oil

Polysorbate 20

Octyldodecanol

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Methylpropanediol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Astaxanthin

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Soluble Collagen

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Oligopeptide-32

Oligopeptide-29

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Ceramide EOP

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Oligopeptide-6

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Betaine, Ceramide NP, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Bakuchiol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Panthenol, Carbomer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, 2,3-Butanediol, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Glyceryl Stearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Polysorbate 20, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Methylpropanediol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Astaxanthin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-32, Oligopeptide-29, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ceramide EOP, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Oligopeptide-6, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Limonene, Linalool

Propanediol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Retinyl Acetate

Dimethicone

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Phospholipids

Glycine Soja Oil

Polysorbate 60

Tocopheryl Acetate

Glycolipids

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Phytate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Glycine Soja Sterols

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Tocopherol

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Retinyl Acetate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phospholipids, Squalane, Glycine Soja Oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycolipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons