Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme Versus Lancôme Rénergie Multi-Action Lift And Firm Anti-Aging Night Cream Moisturizer

Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme Versus Lancôme Rénergie Multi-Action Lift And Firm Anti-Aging Night Cream Moisturizer This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of w

Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme Versus Lancôme Rénergie Multi-Action Lift And Firm Anti-Aging Night Cream Moisturizer

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Petrolatum

Hexyldecyl Stearate

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Glycereth-26

PEG-100 Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Propanediol

Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Persea Gratissima Oil

Whey Protein

Caffeine

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Algae Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Artemia Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Ergothioneine

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Trehalose

Sorbitol

Glycerin

Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl

Cholesterol

Isohexadecane

Acetyl Glucosamine

Myristyl Myristate

Cetearyl Glucoside

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Tocopheryl Acetate

Linoleic Acid

Polysorbate 80

Faex Extract

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Zinc PCA

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Hexylene Glycol

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Myristyl Alcohol

Tromethamine

Stearic Acid

Potassium Sulfate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Citric Acid

Maltodextrin

Aluminum Hydroxide

Parfum

Potassium Sorbate

Dextran

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Phenoxyethanol

CI 42090

CI 17200

CI 77891

Water, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Petrolatum, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycereth-26, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Whey Protein, Caffeine, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Algae Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Artemia Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Ergothioneine, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Trehalose, Sorbitol, Glycerin, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Cholesterol, Isohexadecane, Acetyl Glucosamine, Myristyl Myristate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Linoleic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Faex Extract, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Zinc PCA, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Hexylene Glycol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Myristyl Alcohol, Tromethamine, Stearic Acid, Potassium Sulfate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Citric Acid, Maltodextrin, Aluminum Hydroxide, Parfum, Potassium Sorbate, Dextran, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 42090, CI 17200, CI 77891

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Cetyl Alcohol

Zea Mays Starch

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Alcohol Denat.

Pentylene Glycol

PEG-40 Stearate

Cera Alba

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

CI 14700

CI 19140

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Adenosine

Stearyl Alcohol

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Poloxamer 338

Dimethiconol

Limonene

Xanthan Gum

Benzyl Alcohol

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Sorbitan Tristearate

Geraniol

Hexyl Cinnamal

Water, Glycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Zea Mays Starch, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Alcohol Denat., Petrolatum, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, PEG-40 Stearate, Cera Alba, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, CI 14700, CI 19140, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Stearyl Alcohol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Poloxamer 338, Dimethiconol, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Sorbitan Tristearate, Myristyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Parfum

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Myristyl Alcohol is type of fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

As an emollient, myristyl alcohol hydrates the skin by trapping moisture in.

Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent alcohols.

The FDA allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.

It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.

As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.

This ingredient is oil-soluble.

Petrolatum is more commonly known as petroleum jelly. It is created by mixing waxes and mineral oils.

This ingredient is effective at reducing water loss by 99%. This is because it is an occlusive. Occlusives create a hydrophobic barrier on the skin to prevent evaporation. This property makes it great for hydrating dry skin.

Pro tip: Use occlusives, such as this ingredient, on damp skin for the best results.

The quality or origin of petrolatum is only known when disclosed by the brand. Most cosmetic petrolatum has gone through several purification stages.

Another benefit of occlusives is it protects your skin against infection or allergies.

Petrolatum is fungal acne safe. It is a hydrocarbon with no fatty acid structure, so Malassezia cannot metabolize it. In-vitro studies support negligible growth stimulation as well.

It's also worth noting that petrolatum has a comedogenic rating of 0. In updated rabbit ear testing (and in human testing), petrolatum was found to be not comedogenic. This means it didn’t promote comedone formation in standard models.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
  4. 04As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
  5. 05It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
  6. 06A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
  7. 07Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  8. 08What it does:
  9. 09Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  10. 10Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  11. 11Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
  12. 12This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
  13. 13Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
  14. 14Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
  15. 15This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
  16. 16On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
  17. 17One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too st…
  18. 18Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
  19. 19You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
  20. 20Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side