Skin science article
Shiseido Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme
Shiseido Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This
Shiseido Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Sd Alcohol 40-B
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Cyclohexasiloxane
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Dimethicone
PPG-3 Dipivalate
Myristyl Myristate
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Hydrogenated Palm Oil
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Behenyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 60
PEG-30 Phytosterol
Phenoxyethanol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Batyl Alcohol
Alcohol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Erythritol
PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether
PEG/PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether
Butylene Glycol
Parfum
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Potassium Hydroxide
Caffeine
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Metaphosphate
Tocopherol
Sapindus Mukorossi Peel Extract
CI 77492
Linalool
Sodium Metabisulfite
Limonene
Citronellol
Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract
Geraniol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Citrus Junos Seed Extract
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
CI 77491
Eucheuma Serra/Grateloupia Sparsa/Saccharina Angustata/Ulva Linza/Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract
Saccharina Angustata/Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Silica
Water, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Dimethicone, PPG-3 Dipivalate, Myristyl Myristate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Palm Oil, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, PEG-30 Phytosterol, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Batyl Alcohol, Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Erythritol, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, PEG/PPG-17/4 Dimethyl Ether, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Potassium Hydroxide, Caffeine, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Metaphosphate, Tocopherol, Sapindus Mukorossi Peel Extract, CI 77492, Linalool, Sodium Metabisulfite, Limonene, Citronellol, Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract, Geraniol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citrus Junos Seed Extract, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, CI 77491, Eucheuma Serra/Grateloupia Sparsa/Saccharina Angustata/Ulva Linza/Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract, Saccharina Angustata/Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Silica
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Petrolatum
Hexyldecyl Stearate
Glycereth-26
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Propanediol
Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Persea Gratissima Oil
Whey Protein
Thermus Thermophillus Ferment
Algae Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Artemia Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Ergothioneine
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Trehalose
Sorbitol
Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl
Cholesterol
Isohexadecane
Acetyl Glucosamine
Cetearyl Glucoside
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Caprylyl Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Linoleic Acid
Polysorbate 80
Faex Extract
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Zinc PCA
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Hexylene Glycol
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Myristyl Alcohol
Tromethamine
Stearic Acid
Potassium Sulfate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Citric Acid
Maltodextrin
Aluminum Hydroxide
Potassium Sorbate
Dextran
BHT
CI 42090
CI 17200
CI 77891
Water, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Petrolatum, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycereth-26, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Whey Protein, Caffeine, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Algae Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Artemia Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Ergothioneine, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Trehalose, Sorbitol, Glycerin, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Cholesterol, Isohexadecane, Acetyl Glucosamine, Myristyl Myristate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Linoleic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Faex Extract, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Zinc PCA, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Hexylene Glycol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Myristyl Alcohol, Tromethamine, Stearic Acid, Potassium Sulfate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Citric Acid, Maltodextrin, Aluminum Hydroxide, Parfum, Potassium Sorbate, Dextran, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 42090, CI 17200, CI 77891
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Myristyl Myristate is a waxy ester made by combining myristyl alcohol and myristic acid (both from plant oils from coconut or palm).
It's a non-greasy emollient that melts right around skin temperature. It gives products a soft and velvet feel and helps improve how a cream spreads.
Safety-wise, it's deemed safe to use in cosmetics by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Dermal animal testing found it to be non-toxic and non-irritating.
This ingredient has a comedogenic reputation; it's important to know comedogenic ratings come from outdated rabbit ear tests. Rabbit ears are way more sensitive than human skin and prone to clogging. How likely a formula will clog pores depends on the overall formulation rather than a few comedogenic ingredients.
Because this ingredient is an ester of Myristic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid that sits in the C11-24 range that feeds the Malassezia yeast.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!