Skin science article
Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme SPF 15 Versus Lancôme Rénergie Multi-Action Lift And Firm Anti-Aging Night Cream Moisturizer
Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme SPF 15 Versus Lancôme Rénergie Multi-Action Lift And Firm Anti-Aging Night Cream Moisturizer This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wr
Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme SPF 15 Versus Lancôme Rénergie Multi-Action Lift And Firm Anti-Aging Night Cream Moisturizer
This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Octocrylene
Cetyl Alcohol
Glycerin
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Polyethylene
Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate
Petrolatum
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Hexyldecyl Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Polygonum Aviculare Extract
Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Lactoperoxidase
Glucose Oxidase
Cholesterol
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glucose
Algae Extract
Artemia Extract
Acetyl Glucosamine
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Glyceryl Stearate
Persea Gratissima Oil
Dimethicone
C12-16 Alcohols
Trehalose
Ethylhexylglycerin
PEG-100 Stearate
Caffeine
Palmitic Acid
Glycine Soja Sterols
Caprylyl Glycol
Isohexadecane
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Tocopheryl Acetate
Zinc PCA
Polysilicone-11
Polysorbate 80
Faex Extract
Potato Starch Modified
Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl
Xanthan Gum
Parfum
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Sulfate
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Dextran
Hexylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
CI 14700
Mica
CI 77891
Water, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polyethylene, Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate, Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Lactoperoxidase, Glucose Oxidase, Cholesterol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucose, Algae Extract, Artemia Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Dimethicone, C12-16 Alcohols, Trehalose, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Caffeine, Palmitic Acid, Glycine Soja Sterols, Caprylyl Glycol, Isohexadecane, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Tocopheryl Acetate, Zinc PCA, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 80, Faex Extract, Potato Starch Modified, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sulfate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Dextran, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, Mica, CI 77891
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Zea Mays Starch
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Alcohol Denat.
Pentylene Glycol
PEG-40 Stearate
Cera Alba
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
CI 19140
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Adenosine
Stearyl Alcohol
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Poloxamer 338
Dimethiconol
Limonene
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Benzyl Alcohol
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Sorbitan Tristearate
Myristyl Alcohol
Geraniol
Hexyl Cinnamal
Water, Glycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Zea Mays Starch, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Alcohol Denat., Petrolatum, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, PEG-40 Stearate, Cera Alba, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, CI 14700, CI 19140, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Stearyl Alcohol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Poloxamer 338, Dimethiconol, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Sorbitan Tristearate, Myristyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Parfum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Ci 14700, also known as Red No. 4, is a synthetic red dye derived from petroleum. It is water soluble.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is an emollient that helps make your skin smooth and hydrated. It specializes in creating a non-oily and "wet" feeling on skin.
This ingredient comes from isostearic acid, a saturated fatty acid. It is a synthetic ingredient.
Petrolatum is more commonly known as petroleum jelly. It is created by mixing waxes and mineral oils.
This ingredient is effective at reducing water loss by 99%. This is because it is an occlusive. Occlusives create a hydrophobic barrier on the skin to prevent evaporation. This property makes it great for hydrating dry skin.
Pro tip: Use occlusives, such as this ingredient, on damp skin for the best results.
The quality or origin of petrolatum is only known when disclosed by the brand. Most cosmetic petrolatum has gone through several purification stages.
Another benefit of occlusives is it protects your skin against infection or allergies.
Petrolatum is fungal acne safe. It is a hydrocarbon with no fatty acid structure, so Malassezia cannot metabolize it. In-vitro studies support negligible growth stimulation as well.
It's also worth noting that petrolatum has a comedogenic rating of 0. In updated rabbit ear testing (and in human testing), petrolatum was found to be not comedogenic. This means it didn’t promote comedone formation in standard models.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.