Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Versus Vanicream Vitamin C Serum

First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Versus Vanicream Vitamin C Serum This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Colloidal Oatmeal to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness. This brightening serum is formulated aro

First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum Versus Vanicream Vitamin C Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Colloidal Oatmeal to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness.

This brightening serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Carnosine to brighten dull-looking skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Squalane

Sodium Citrate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Colloidal Oatmeal

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Glycerin

Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate

Xanthan Gum

Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate

Phenoxyethanol

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Hydroxide

Tetrasodium EDTA

Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Sodium Citrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Colloidal Oatmeal, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA

Diisooctyl Succinate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Carnosine

Ceramide NP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide Ng

Ceramide As

Phytosterols

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Caprylyl Glycol

Water, Glycerin, Diisooctyl Succinate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Carnosine, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide As, Phytosterols, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Glycereth-26
  4. 04Squalane
  5. 05Sodium Hyaluronate
  6. 06Soluble Collagen
  7. 07Colloidal Oatmeal
  8. 08Panthenol
  9. 09Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
  10. 10Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  11. 11Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  12. 12Allantoin
  13. 13Ethylhexylglycerin
  14. 14Sorbitan Oleate
  15. 15Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  16. 16Sodium PCA
  17. 17Phenoxyethanol
  18. 18Sodium Hydroxide
  19. 19Potassium Sorbate
  20. 20Sodium Benzoate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side