Fraijour Original Wormwood Calming Watery Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream

Fraijour Original Wormwood Calming Watery Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin and Hyaluronic Acid to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Betaine

1,2-Hexanediol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Hyaluronic Acid

Squalane

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Propanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Arginine

Allantoin

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Angelica Archangelica Root Extract

Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract

Morus Alba Bark Extract

Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Medicago Sativa Extract

Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Brassica Campestris Extract

Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract

Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract

Triticum Vulgare Seed Extract

Zea Mays Kernel Extract

Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract

Verbena Officinalis Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Aspalathus Linearis Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract

Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Pinus Sylvestris Bud Extract

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Limonene

Linalool

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Squalane, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Arginine, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Brassica Campestris Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Triticum Vulgare Seed Extract, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Verbena Officinalis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Bud Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Limonene, Linalool, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Oryza Sativa Bran Water

Panax Ginseng Root Water

Niacinamide

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Xanthan Gum

Tromethamine

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Coconut Oil

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Adenosine

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Honey Extract

Ceramide NP

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Dextrin

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Water, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Glycerin, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Honey Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Dextrin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.

Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:

Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Hydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic emollient. It forms a non-occlusive film on the skin's surface to provide a silky feel without being greasy.

In vivo studies in volunteers with atopic and dry skin showed no irritation or intolerance. The volunteers also saw a positive effect in dryness, scaling, and roughness after 28 days of use.

Concentrations up to 100% in guinea pig tests found it to be non-sensitizing and completely safe for use in cosmetics.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

This ingredient is also called radish or daikon seed extract. It has skin conditioning properties.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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