Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Fresh Kombucha Antioxidant Facial Treatment Essence Versus Paula's Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum

Fresh Kombucha Antioxidant Facial Treatment Essence Versus Paula's Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum This hydrating essence is formulated around Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to hydrate skin and s

Fresh Kombucha Antioxidant Facial Treatment Essence Versus Paula's Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum

This hydrating essence is formulated around Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Glycerin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglycerin-3

Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Adenosine

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Butylene Glycol

Diglycerin

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

Disodium EDTA

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sodium Citrate

BHT

Citric Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Biotin

Phenoxyethanol

Linalool

Citronellol

Geraniol

Water, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Diglycerin, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Citrate, BHT, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Biotin, Phenoxyethanol, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dimethicone

Polysorbate 20

Polysilicone-11

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Hyaluronic Acid

Resveratrol

Niacinamide

Quercetin

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Phospholipids

Ubiquinone

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Sea Whip Extract

Bisabolol

Beta-Glucan

Phytic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Polysilicone-11, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Hyaluronic Acid, Resveratrol, Niacinamide, Quercetin, Adenosine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Ubiquinone, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Sea Whip Extract, Bisabolol, Beta-Glucan, Phytic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Methylpropanediol
  3. 03Butylene Glycol
  4. 04Polysorbate 20
  5. 05Salicylic Acid
  6. 06Phytosphingosine
  7. 07Hydroxyethylcellulose
  8. 08Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
  9. 09Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
  10. 10Epilobium Angustifolium Extract
  11. 11Bisabolol
  12. 12Tetrasodium EDTA
  13. 13Sodium Hydroxide
  14. 14Water, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Salicylic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Bisabolol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
  15. 15Salicylic Acid 2%
  16. 16Arginine
  17. 17Allantoin
  18. 18Cucumis Sativus Fruit Water
  19. 19Glycerin
  20. 20Centella Asiatica Extract
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Power Berry Serum

Paula's Choice Power Berry Serum Paula's Choice Power Berry Serum ingredients explained: Water⁠, Glycerin⁠, Coco-Caprylate⁠, Butylene Glycol⁠, Propanediol⁠, Glyceryl Stearate⁠, Emblica Offi…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side