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Skin science article

Geek & Gorgeous Ha 5 Rich Versus SkinMedica TNS® Advanced+ Serum

Geek & Gorgeous Ha 5 Rich Versus SkinMedica TNS® Advanced+ Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns N

Geek & Gorgeous Ha 5 Rich Versus SkinMedica TNS® Advanced+ Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Betaine

Glycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Panthenol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Propanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Betaine, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Human Neonatal Fibroblast Conditioned Media

Glycereth-7 Triacetate

Shea Butter Ethyl Esters

Ethoxydiglycol

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Whey Protein

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Saccharide Isomerate

Dimer Tripeptide-43

Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Sclerotium Gum

PEG-12 Dimethicone

Lecithin

Pullulan

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Citrate

Polysorbate 20

Aminomethyl Propanol

Disodium EDTA

Water, Pentylene Glycol, Human Neonatal Fibroblast Conditioned Media, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Whey Protein, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Dimer Tripeptide-43, Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Sclerotium Gum, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Lecithin, Pullulan, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a texture enhancer and pH adjuster.

It is be used to thicken water-based products and create a gel-texture with a velvet feel.

One manufacturer claims this ingredient to have a pH range of 2-8 and to be biodegradable.

This ingredient is also known as Sepimax Zen.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03This is a growth factor ingredient.
  4. 04So what are growth factors? They're tiny messenger proteins your skin already makes on its own. Their job is to tell skin cells what to do: grow, repair, make more collagen, calm down after damage.
  5. 05Our skin makes fewer of them as we age. This is a big part of why older skin heals slower and looks less bouncy.
  6. 06The idea behind putting them in skincare is to "top up" the supply from the outside.
  7. 07"Conditioned media" sounds mysterious but it's basically just leftover broth.
  8. 08They're made in a lab where scientists grow human skin cells (fibroblasts) in a nutrient liquid. These cells release a cocktail of helpful proteins into that liquid as they live and grow.
  9. 09Then, these cells are filtered out and the ingredient is the "conditioned" liquid now full of secreted goodies.
  10. 10So what does neonatal mean here? It just means the original cells came from newborn tissue (usually donated foreskin), which tend to be younger, more active, and better at pumping out growth factors than adult cells.
  11. 11Technically, this isn't one single ingredient, it's a mix of dozens of active molecules working together, including:
  12. 12Studies find growth factor conditioned media can help with:
  13. 13The evidence behind this ingredient is pretty solid too (and not just marketing).
  14. 14A 24 week study of a fibroblast conditinoed media serum showed measurable improvements in the look of photodamaged skin, and these results were backed by actual skin biopsies rather than just before/after photoshoots.
  15. 15And a broader review that pulled together many growth factor studies came to a similar conclusion: they generally help with fine lines, texture, firmness, and are well-tolerated.
  16. 16It's also worth knowing the caveat that the review pointed out most of these serums also contained peptides, antioxidants, and exosomes.
  17. 17The honest answer is there isn't a tidy "use at 1-2%" number the way there is for something like niacinamide.
  18. 18This is because conditioned media isn't a single molecule. Brands add it as a percentage of a finished formula so that number is all over the map.
  19. 19The serums built around it usually advertise very high levels (~50%) while others just use a splash. And the individual growth factors floating inside are actually present in very tiny amounts (think nano/micrograms per gram).
  20. 20Here's one regulatory anchor point: the FDA has approved a wound healing gel that uses a pure growth factor at 0.01% (100 micrograms per gram). This shows the active growth factors themselves work at very low concentrations.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

SkinMedica Tns Advanced+ Serum

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Product

SkinMedica Tns Advanced+ Serum

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side