Skin science article
Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Hello FAB Coconut Water Cream
Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Hello FAB Coconut Water Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Polyglutamic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This calming moisturizer i
Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Hello FAB Coconut Water Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Polyglutamic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
C13-15 Alkane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C9-12 Alkane
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Pentylene Glycol
Squalane
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Seed Oil
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Davidsonia Jerseyana Fruit Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Powder
Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract
Polyglutamic Acid
Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Epilobium Fleischeri Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Niacinamide
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Xylitylglucoside
Isononyl Isononanoate
Caprylyl Glycol
Anhydroxylitol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Arginine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Chloride
Xylitol
Stearic Acid
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Glucose
Potassium Phosphate
Butylene Glycol
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Hydroxypropylcellulose
Alaria Esculenta Extract
Sodium Phosphate
Potassium Chloride
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Citric Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Gluconolactone
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Silica
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Parfum
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, C13-15 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C9-12 Alkane, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Seed Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Davidsonia Jerseyana Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Powder, Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract, Polyglutamic Acid, Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Epilobium Fleischeri Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Niacinamide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xylitylglucoside, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Anhydroxylitol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Chloride, Xylitol, Stearic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Glucose, Potassium Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Sodium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Gluconolactone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Juice
Maltodextrin
Dimethicone
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Sea Salt
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Dipteryx Odorata Seed Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Tocopherol
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Dipropylene Glycol
Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone
Polysilicone-11
Laureth-8
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Juice, Glucose, Maltodextrin, Water, Dimethicone, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Sea Salt, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dipteryx Odorata Seed Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Laureth-8, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!