Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IMAGE skincare I Mask Purifying Probiotic Mask Versus First Aid Beauty 5 in 1 Bouncy Face Mask

IMAGE skincare I Mask Purifying Probiotic Mask Versus First Aid Beauty 5 in 1 Bouncy Face Mask This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Lactococcus Ferment Lysate for a rinse-off oil-control boost. This wash off mask is made with Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extra

IMAGE skincare I Mask Purifying Probiotic Mask Versus First Aid Beauty 5 in 1 Bouncy Face Mask

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin and Lactococcus Ferment Lysate for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

This wash off mask is made with Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract for a rinse-off calming boost.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Kaolin

Glycerin

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil

Hypnea Musciformis Extract

Cetyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

CI 77288

Arachidyl Alcohol

Ceteareth-20

Sargassum Filipendula Extract

Inulin

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Sorbitol

Behenyl Alcohol

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Carrageenan

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Arachidyl Glucoside

Gelidiella Acerosa Extract

Xanthan Gum

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Yogurt

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Lactate

Tocopherol

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Charcoal Powder

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract

Santalum Album Extract

Cucumis Melo Cantalupensis Fruit Extract

Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract

Sodium PCA

Glucose

Lactic Acid

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract

Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Spirulina Maxima Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Punica Granatum Juice Extract

Rose Extract

Butter Extract

Cananga Odorata Flower Extract

Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract

Sodium Chloride

Silybum Marianum Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Limonene

Hydroxycitronellal

Water, Kaolin, Glycerin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, CI 77288, Arachidyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Sargassum Filipendula Extract, Inulin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Sorbitol, Behenyl Alcohol, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Carrageenan, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Arachidyl Glucoside, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Xanthan Gum, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Yogurt, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Charcoal Powder, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Santalum Album Extract, Cucumis Melo Cantalupensis Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Sodium PCA, Glucose, Lactic Acid, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Juice Extract, Rose Extract, Butter Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Sodium Chloride, Silybum Marianum Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal

Butylene Glycol

Cyclopentasiloxane

PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether

Pullulan

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Algae Extract

Rosa Multiflora Fruit Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Plankton Extract

Sea Salt

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Dimethicone

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Menthoxypropanediol

Stevioside

Disodium EDTA

Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate

Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Sodium Citrate

Potassium Laurate

Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pullulan, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Algae Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Rosa Multiflora Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Plankton Extract, Tocopherol, Sea Salt, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium PCA, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Menthoxypropanediol, Stevioside, Carrageenan, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Potassium Laurate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carrageenan comes from red seaweed or algae. It is made up of polysaccharides and a highly flexible compound. Red algae cell walls are rich in carrageenan.

In cosmetics, it helps to thicken the texture. Studies show carrageenan extracted from red algae possess antioxidant properties. Components found in carrageenan include: lipids, fatty acids, Vitamin E, proteins, and several amino acids.

Learn more about different types of algae.

Carrageenan is also commonly used in medicine and food. It is a vegan alternative to animal-based gelatin.

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract comes from the watermelon. Watermelon has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Watermelons are rich in antioxidants such as Vitamin A, Vitamin C and lycopene. It also contains sugars and amino acids, such as arginine and glutathione.

Lycopene is a potent antioxidant. Besides helping to protect your skin against free-radical molecules, it also helps soothe the skin. Lycopene gives watermelon the distinct red color.

This extract comes from cucumber. Cucumbers are mostly made up of water (95%), and the other 5% is composed of: vitamin C, caffeic acid, fatty acids, amino acids, and other minerals.

Cucumbers have anti-inflammatory, barrier repair, and hydrating properties.

They contain shikimate dehydrigenase, an enzyme shown to help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin.

The amino acids found in cucumbers help nourish our skin's natural acid mantle (it's an important part of our skin barrier). This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to protect us from bacteria, viruses, and other contaminants.

Unless you have an allergy to cucumbers, this is generally a non-irritating ingredient.

Fun fact: Cucumis Sativus is native to South Asia and can now be found on every continent.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

We don't have a description for Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract yet.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.

The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.

Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.

Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.

As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.

There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.

Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.

It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06This ingredient is a silicone-based emulsifer that helps the water and oil phases play nicely together.
  7. 07It's pretty effective because one end of the molecule loves oil and the other one loves water.
  8. 08Besides holding formulas together, it also leaves a silky and lightweight feel on skin without the greasiness. A manufacturer also claims it can help with the controlled release of active ingredients.
  9. 09The CIR Expert Panel found this ingredient to not be sensitizing in concentrations up to 15% in human maximazation testing and dimethicone-based compounds were not comedogenic.
  10. 10It has a high molecular weight well above 1,000 g/mol which means it limits meaningful skin penetration.
  11. 11A 2019 study specifically tested this ingredient and found no observable Malassezia growth in its presence.
  12. 12Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
  13. 13Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
  14. 14The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
  15. 15There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
  16. 16Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
  17. 17The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
  18. 18Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  19. 19What it does:
  20. 20Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side