Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus Avène Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus Avène Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moistur

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus Avène Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

No key ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Water

Glycerin

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Dimethicone

Panthenol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Isohexadecane

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Polysorbate 80

Xanthan Gum

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Palmitate

Lactic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Allantoin

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Aminomethyl Propanol

Sorbitan Stearate

Sorbitan Oleate

Citric Acid

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sodium Hyaluronate

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tocopherol

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Isohexadecane, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Polysorbate 80, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, Lactic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbitan Oleate, Citric Acid, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Squalane

Cetearyl Glucoside

Cetyl Esters

Aquaphilus Dolomiae Extract Filtrate

Arginine

Beeswax

Tromethamine

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Esters, Aquaphilus Dolomiae Extract Filtrate, Arginine, Beeswax, Citric Acid, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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