Skin science article
IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus Avène Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream
IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus Avène Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moistur
IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus Avène Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Water
Glycerin
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Stearic Acid
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Dimethicone
Panthenol
Phenyl Trimethicone
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Tocopheryl Acetate
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Isohexadecane
Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
Polysorbate 80
Xanthan Gum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetyl Palmitate
Lactic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Allantoin
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Aminomethyl Propanol
Sorbitan Stearate
Sorbitan Oleate
Citric Acid
Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil
Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Sodium Hyaluronate
Arctium Lappa Root Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract
Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Tocopherol
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Limonene
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Isohexadecane, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Polysorbate 80, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, Lactic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbitan Oleate, Citric Acid, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Squalane
Cetearyl Glucoside
Cetyl Esters
Aquaphilus Dolomiae Extract Filtrate
Arginine
Beeswax
Tromethamine
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Esters, Aquaphilus Dolomiae Extract Filtrate, Arginine, Beeswax, Citric Acid, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.