Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus SkinMedica Ultra Sheer Moisturizer

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus SkinMedica Ultra Sheer Moisturizer This calming moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin. This calming moisturizer is formulated around

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus SkinMedica Ultra Sheer Moisturizer

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Water

Glycerin

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Dimethicone

Panthenol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Isohexadecane

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Polysorbate 80

Xanthan Gum

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Palmitate

Lactic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Allantoin

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Aminomethyl Propanol

Sorbitan Stearate

Sorbitan Oleate

Citric Acid

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sodium Hyaluronate

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tocopherol

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Isohexadecane, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Polysorbate 80, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, Lactic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbitan Oleate, Citric Acid, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Methyl Gluceth-20

Polysorbate 60

Ceteareth-20

Carbomer

Disodium EDTA

Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Sorbitan Stearate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Polysorbate 60, Dimethicone, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Aminomethyl Propanol is used to adjust the pH of products. It is also used as a base to create other organic compounds. Having a balanced pH is important for protecting your skin.

Aminomethyl propanol is safe to use in cosmetics up to 1%. It is soluble in water.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sorbitan Stearate is an emulsifier made by reacting sorbitol with stearic acid.

It's mostly used to keep oil and water mixed so your formulas stay smooth and stable.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has found 4% of this ingredient in repeat-insult patch tests on humans to be non-sensitizing. There is a caveat that some reactions have shown up in patients with damaged or diseased skin.

Because it is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize. This means this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.

THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).

Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.

Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.

Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.

A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).

While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.

THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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