IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer

IMAGE skincare Ormedic Balancing Bio-Peptide Crème Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Water

Glycerin

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Stearic Acid

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Dimethicone

Panthenol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Tocopheryl Acetate

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Isohexadecane

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Polysorbate 80

Xanthan Gum

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Palmitate

Lactic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Allantoin

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Aminomethyl Propanol

Sorbitan Stearate

Sorbitan Oleate

Citric Acid

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sodium Hyaluronate

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tocopherol

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Isohexadecane, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Polysorbate 80, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, Lactic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbitan Oleate, Citric Acid, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Tamarindus Indica Fruit Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Propanediol

Polysilicone-11

C10-18 Triglycerides

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Cetyl Alcohol

Ceramide NP

Polyacrylate-13

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Laureth-12

Sorbitan Isostearate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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