Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Repair Cream Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer

IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Repair Cream Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Repair Cream Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Isostearyl Neopentanoate

PEG-100 Stearate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Limonene

Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer

Cetyl Alcohol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Stearyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Tocopherol

Ceteth-10 Phosphate

Dicetyl Phosphate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Panthenol

Squalane

Caprylyl Glycol

Glycine Soja Sterols

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glucosamine Hcl

Hexylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

PEG-8

Butylene Glycol

Phytic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Pisum Sativum Extract

Allantoin

Retinyl Palmitate

Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Yeast Polysaccharides

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hyaluronate

Benzoic Acid

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Pyruvic Acid

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Citric Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, PEG-100 Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Limonene, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Stearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tocopherol, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Panthenol, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucosamine Hcl, Hexylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-8, Butylene Glycol, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Pisum Sativum Extract, Allantoin, Retinyl Palmitate, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Yeast Polysaccharides, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzoic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Pyruvic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Propanediol

Jojoba Esters

Acetyl Zingerone

Cetyl Palmitate

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Sorbitan Olivate

Sorbitan Palmitate

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Sodium Phytate

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Lecithin

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Lysolecithin

Bacillus Ferment

Polyglutamic Acid

Beta-Sitosterol

Squalene

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Propanediol, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Acetyl Zingerone, Cetyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lecithin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Lysolecithin, Bacillus Ferment, Citric Acid, Polyglutamic Acid, Beta-Sitosterol, Phytic Acid, Squalene, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Hexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.

It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.

As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.

Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.

This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.

A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Phytic Acid is a gentle AHA and antioxidant. AHAs are chemical exfoliants that help remove dead skin cells. Phytic Acid has a slight and mild exfoliating effect.

The chemical makeup makes it classified as an AHA, much like lactic acid.

In some cases, it is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water, helping to stabilize the ingredients in a product.

An interesting fact about phytic acid is that it is considered an antinutrient. People do not have the enzyme needed to properly breakdown and digest phytic acid. When ingested, phytic acid binds to minerals and prevents them from being absorbed.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Symphytum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract
  3. 03Xanthan Gum
  4. 04Linalool
  5. 05Citric Acid
  6. 06Potassium Sorbate
  7. 07Sodium Benzoate
  8. 08Ascorbic Acid
  9. 09Gold
  10. 10Glutathione
  11. 11Water, Symphytum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Linalool, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbic Acid, Gold, Glutathione
  12. 12Niacinamide
  13. 13Glycerin
  14. 14Hexyldecanol
  15. 15Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
  16. 16Butylene Glycol
  17. 17Dimethicone
  18. 18Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  19. 19Panthenol
  20. 20Hydroxyacetophenone
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

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IMAGE skincare Flawless Foundation Ingredients in IMAGE skincare Flawless Foundation Beige explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 57 ingredients including Zinc Oxide, Titan…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side