Institut Esthederm Age Proteom Advanced Serum Versus SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum

Institut Esthederm Age Proteom Advanced Serum Versus SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Adenosine and Carnosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Isononyl Isononanoate

Propanediol

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Xylose

1,2-Hexanediol

Cellulose

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate

C20-22 Alcohols

Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Parfum

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Coco-Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Sodium Hydroxide

Adenosine

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Chloride

Citric Acid

Aminoethanesulfinic Acid

Carnosine

Potassium Chloride

Sodium Bicarbonate

Disodium Phosphate

Tocopherol

Magnesium Sulfate

Micrococcus Lysate

Potassium Phosphate

Calcium Chloride

Water, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propanediol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Xylose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cellulose, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, C20-22 Alcohols, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Parfum, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Coco-Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Aminoethanesulfinic Acid, Carnosine, Potassium Chloride, Sodium Bicarbonate, Disodium Phosphate, Tocopherol, Magnesium Sulfate, Micrococcus Lysate, Potassium Phosphate, Calcium Chloride

Niacinamide

Gluconolactone

Butylene Glycol

PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin

Alcohol Denat.

Pentylene Glycol

Methyl Gluceth-20

Potassium Hydroxide

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Salicylic Acid

Chlorphenesin

Phytic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Water, Niacinamide, Gluconolactone, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Pentylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Salicylic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phytic Acid, Adenosine, Sodium Benzoate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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