Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

L'Oreal Age Perfect Golden Age Rose Oil Serum Versus SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum

L'Oreal Age Perfect Golden Age Rose Oil Serum Versus SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging serum

L'Oreal Age Perfect Golden Age Rose Oil Serum Versus SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Alcohol Denat.

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Callus Extract

Adenosine

Calcium PCA

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Citric Acid

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Rosa Canina Seed Oil

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Methyl Gluceth-20

PEG-8

Pentylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30

Propanediol

Sodium Lactate

Tocopherol

Xanthan Gum

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Benzyl Alcohol

Benzyl Benzoate

Geraniol

Limonene

Linalool

CI 14700

CI 19140

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Callus Extract, Adenosine, Calcium PCA, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-8, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, Propanediol, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool, CI 14700, CI 19140, Parfum

Gluconolactone

PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin

Potassium Hydroxide

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Salicylic Acid

Chlorphenesin

Phytic Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Water, Niacinamide, Gluconolactone, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Pentylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Salicylic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phytic Acid, Adenosine, Sodium Benzoate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.

The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).

This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.

However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.

Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.

This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.

Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.

Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.

The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.

One thing to note: People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).

Also...

This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.

The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.

Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.

This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.

Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Methyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin.

It is created by combining polyethylene glycol with glucose.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
  4. 04Polyglycerin-3
  5. 05Butylene Glycol
  6. 06Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
  7. 07Propanediol
  8. 08Dimethicone
  9. 091,2-Hexanediol
  10. 10Niacinamide
  11. 11Methylpropanediol
  12. 12Cetearyl Alcohol
  13. 13Glyceryl Stearate
  14. 14Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
  15. 15Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
  16. 16Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  17. 17Dimethicone Crosspolymer
  18. 18Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
  19. 19Sodium Polyacrylate
  20. 20Hydrogenated Lecithin
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

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