Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Isntree Chestnut BHA 2% Clear Liquid Versus Paula's Choice PC4Men Face Wash

Isntree Chestnut BHA 2% Clear Liquid Versus Paula's Choice PC4Men Face Wash This pore-care exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and clear breakouts. This mild gel cleanser is mild enough to cleanse without leaving skin fee

Isntree Chestnut BHA 2% Clear Liquid Versus Paula's Choice PC4Men Face Wash

This pore-care exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and clear breakouts.

This mild gel cleanser is mild enough to cleanse without leaving skin feeling tight or stripped.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

No key ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Salicylic Acid

Castanea Crenata Shell Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Glycerin

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Disodium EDTA

Citric Acid

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Allantoin

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Salicylic Acid, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Allantoin

Decyl Glucoside

Sodium Cocoamphoacetate

Lauryl Glucoside

Coco-Glucoside

Glucose

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate

Glyceryl Oleate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Carrageenan

Sodium Phytate

Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Decyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Coco-Glucoside, Glucose, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Glyceryl Oleate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Carrageenan, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Aminomethyl Propanol
  3. 03Glycolic Acid
  4. 04Lactic Acid
  5. 05Mandelic Acid
  6. 06Isoamyl Laurate
  7. 07Tartaric Acid
  8. 08Propanediol
  9. 09Salicylic Acid
  10. 10Malic Acid
  11. 11Butylene Glycol
  12. 12Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract
  13. 13Sodium Hyaluronate
  14. 14Glycyrrhetinic Acid
  15. 15Glycerin
  16. 16Tocopherol
  17. 17Bisabolol
  18. 18Allantoin
  19. 19Hydroxyethylcellulose
  20. 20Hydrogenated Lecithin
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side