Skin science article
Kate Somerville ExfoliKate® Intensive Pore Exfoliating Treatment Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum
Kate Somerville ExfoliKate® Intensive Pore Exfoliating Treatment Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Lactic Acid and Silica to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores. This anti-aging
Kate Somerville ExfoliKate® Intensive Pore Exfoliating Treatment Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Lactic Acid and Silica to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Lactic Acid
Silica
Glycine Soja Oil
Pectin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Carica Papaya Fruit
Ceteareth-20
Cetyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Dehydroxanthan Gum
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Salicylic Acid
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Alcohol Denat.
Sorbic Acid
Cinnamal
Mel
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Eugenol
Potassium Sorbate
Limonene
Linalool
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Beta-Carotene
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Bromelain
Papain
Retinyl Palmitate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Cinnamomum Cassia Leaf Oil
Acetic Acid
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
CI 75810
Water, Lactic Acid, Silica, Glycine Soja Oil, Pectin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carica Papaya Fruit, Ceteareth-20, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Dehydroxanthan Gum, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Salicylic Acid, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Alcohol Denat., Sorbic Acid, Cinnamal, Mel, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Eugenol, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Linalool, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Beta-Carotene, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Bromelain, Papain, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cinnamomum Cassia Leaf Oil, Acetic Acid, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, CI 75810
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Heptyl Undecylenate
Octyldodecanol
Glycereth-26
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Algae Extract
Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Geraniol
Citronellol
Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Glucosamine Hcl
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Caffeine
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Molasses Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Lecithin
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
PEG-8
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Metabisulfite
Sodium Sulfite
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Phytate
BHT
Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Heptyl Undecylenate, Octyldodecanol, Glycereth-26, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Algae Extract, Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Limonene, Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Caffeine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Molasses Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-8, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Sulfite, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is the oil from the bergamot orange and is primarily used as a fragrance. It has a "fresh" and "bright orange" scent.
The main aroma compounds found in this ingredient are limonene (~27-52%), linalool (~2-22%), and linalyl acetate (~27-40%). These are known EU fragrance allergens.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
When used topically, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is a photosensitizer due to the furanocoumarin content. Furanocoumarins absorb UV-A and cause phytophotodermatitis; this can look like redness, blistering, and lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin.
Due to this, this ingredient is capped at 0.4% in leave-on products applied to sun exposed skin.
Many modern formulas used a "furanocoumarin-free" version that sidesteps the phototoxicity issue, but still contains the fragrance allergens.
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.
Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.
When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.
A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.
Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.
More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.
Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It is volatile, meaning it evaporates off the skin.
Fragrant components of Rose Geranium include citronellol and geraniol. These may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.
The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles traditional roses.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!