Skin science article
La Mer The Lifting Firming Serum Versus Perricone MD High Potency Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Serum
La Mer The Lifting Firming Serum Versus Perricone MD High Potency Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles. This ant
La Mer The Lifting Firming Serum Versus Perricone MD High Potency Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Algae Extract
Methyl Trimethicone
Trisiloxane
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Glycerin
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Isododecane
Maris Sal
Isopropyl Isostearate
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Medicago Sativa Seed Powder
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Sodium Gluconate
Copper Gluconate
Calcium Gluconate
Magnesium Gluconate
Zinc Gluconate
Tocopheryl Succinate
Niacin
Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Isohexadecane
Aspergillus Ferment
Faex Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract
Caffeine
Squalane
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Thermus Thermophillus Ferment
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract
Pullulan
Hordeum Distichon Extract
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Sodium Lactate
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Sodium PCA
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Gold
Ethylhexylglycerin
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Prunus Persica Flower Extract
Peat Extract
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
PEG-8
Hexylene Glycol
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Propylene Carbonate
Alcohol Denat.
CI 77120
Silica
Polyethylene
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Polysilicone-11
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Parfum
Limonene
Linalool
Hydroxycitronellal
Geraniol
Citronellol
Benzyl Salicylate
Tocopherol
BHT
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Mica
CI 19140
CI 14700
CI 17200
Water, Dimethicone, Algae Extract, Methyl Trimethicone, Trisiloxane, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Isododecane, Maris Sal, Isopropyl Isostearate, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Isohexadecane, Aspergillus Ferment, Faex Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Caffeine, Squalane, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract, Pullulan, Hordeum Distichon Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Sodium Lactate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Sodium PCA, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Gold, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Peat Extract, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, PEG-8, Hexylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Propylene Carbonate, Alcohol Denat., CI 77120, Silica, Polyethylene, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polysilicone-11, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Citronellol, Benzyl Salicylate, Tocopherol, BHT, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Mica, CI 19140, CI 14700, CI 17200
Heptyl Undecylenate
Lecithin
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Niacinamide
Pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate
Phosphatidylcholine
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Hydrolyzed Egg Shell Membrane
Tricaprylin
Retinol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Dipropylene Glycol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Cetearyl Alcohol
Stearic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Spermidine
Sodium Polyacrylate
Benzyl Alcohol
Water, Butylene Glycol, Heptyl Undecylenate, Lecithin, Alcohol Denat., Polymethyl Methacrylate, Niacinamide, Pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate, Phosphatidylcholine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Egg Shell Membrane, Tricaprylin, Retinol, Tocopherol, BHT, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Spermidine, Sodium Polyacrylate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note: People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Hydroxycitronellal is a fragrance created from citronellal. The smell of hydroxycitronellal is often described as "citrus-like" or "melon-like".
Hydroxycitronellal is a known EU allergen and may cause irritation when applied to the skin.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!