Skin science article
La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+
La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+ This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Cholesterol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Rosa Damascena
La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Cholesterol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Rosa Damascena Flower Water and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Algae Extract
Cyclopentasiloxane
Petrolatum
Glyceryl Distearate
Phenyl Trimethicone
Cyclohexasiloxane
Butylene Glycol
Cholesterol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Steareth-10
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Polysilicone-11
Glyceryl Triacetyl Ricinoleate
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Glycerin
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Medicago Sativa Seed Powder
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Sodium Gluconate
Copper Gluconate
Calcium Gluconate
Magnesium Gluconate
Zinc Gluconate
Tocopheryl Succinate
Niacin
Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder
Water
Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Plankton Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Caffeine
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Triethylhexanoin
Sodium PCA
Cetyl Alcohol
Diethylhexyl Succinate
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate
Cyanocobalamin
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Distearyldimonium Chloride
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Sucrose
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Trehalose
Hydrolyzed Algin
Micrococcus Lysate
Maris Sal
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Lactoperoxidase
Glucose Oxidase
Urea
Glucose
Polyacrylamide
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
PEG-8
Laureth-7
Lecithin
Triacetin
Sodium Chloride
Polyquaternium-51
Potassium Phosphate
Alcohol Denat.
Parfum
Limonene
Linalool
Hydroxycitronellal
Citronellol
Geraniol
BHT
Disodium EDTA
Sorbic Acid
Chlorphenesin
Potassium Sorbate
Phenoxyethanol
Algae Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Petrolatum, Glyceryl Distearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Cholesterol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Steareth-10, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Polysilicone-11, Glyceryl Triacetyl Ricinoleate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Water, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Plankton Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium PCA, Cetyl Alcohol, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Cyanocobalamin, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Sucrose, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed Algin, Micrococcus Lysate, Maris Sal, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Lactoperoxidase, Glucose Oxidase, Urea, Glucose, Polyacrylamide, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, PEG-8, Laureth-7, Lecithin, Triacetin, Sodium Chloride, Polyquaternium-51, Potassium Phosphate, Alcohol Denat., Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Geraniol, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Methyl Gluceth-20
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
Diglycerin
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Pullulan
Xanthan Gum
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
PPG-26-Buteth-26
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Pentylene Glycol
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Maltodextrin
Sodium Hydroxide
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
Citric Acid
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Psilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Carbomer
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture
Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture
Acetyl Hexapeptide-38
N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Diglycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citric Acid, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Psilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Acetyl Hexapeptide-38, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!