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La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+

La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+ This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Cholesterol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Rosa Damascena

La Mer The Moisturizing Soft Cream Versus Chantecaille Bio Lifting Serum+

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Cholesterol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Rosa Damascena Flower Water and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Algae Extract

Cyclopentasiloxane

Petrolatum

Glyceryl Distearate

Phenyl Trimethicone

Cyclohexasiloxane

Butylene Glycol

Cholesterol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Steareth-10

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Polysilicone-11

Glyceryl Triacetyl Ricinoleate

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Glycerin

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Medicago Sativa Seed Powder

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Sodium Gluconate

Copper Gluconate

Calcium Gluconate

Magnesium Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Tocopheryl Succinate

Niacin

Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder

Water

Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Plankton Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Caffeine

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Triethylhexanoin

Sodium PCA

Cetyl Alcohol

Diethylhexyl Succinate

Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate

Cyanocobalamin

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Distearyldimonium Chloride

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Sucrose

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Trehalose

Hydrolyzed Algin

Micrococcus Lysate

Maris Sal

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Lactoperoxidase

Glucose Oxidase

Urea

Glucose

Polyacrylamide

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

PEG-8

Laureth-7

Lecithin

Triacetin

Sodium Chloride

Polyquaternium-51

Potassium Phosphate

Alcohol Denat.

Parfum

Limonene

Linalool

Hydroxycitronellal

Citronellol

Geraniol

BHT

Disodium EDTA

Sorbic Acid

Chlorphenesin

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Algae Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Petrolatum, Glyceryl Distearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Cholesterol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Steareth-10, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Polysilicone-11, Glyceryl Triacetyl Ricinoleate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Glycerin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Water, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Plankton Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium PCA, Cetyl Alcohol, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Cyanocobalamin, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Sucrose, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed Algin, Micrococcus Lysate, Maris Sal, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Lactoperoxidase, Glucose Oxidase, Urea, Glucose, Polyacrylamide, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, PEG-8, Laureth-7, Lecithin, Triacetin, Sodium Chloride, Polyquaternium-51, Potassium Phosphate, Alcohol Denat., Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Geraniol, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Methyl Gluceth-20

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Diglycerin

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Pullulan

Xanthan Gum

Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

PPG-26-Buteth-26

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Pentylene Glycol

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Maltodextrin

Sodium Hydroxide

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Citric Acid

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Psilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Carbomer

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture

Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture

Acetyl Hexapeptide-38

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Diglycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citric Acid, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Psilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Cell Culture, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, Acetyl Hexapeptide-38, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

letique cosmetics Pro Lifting SerumIngredients explained

  1. 01Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  2. 02It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  3. 03Expand to read more
  4. 04Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  5. 05One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  6. 06One of the many types of ceramides that can be found naturally in the upper layer of the skin. Ceramides make up about 50% of the goopy stuff that's between our skin cells and play a super important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping …
  7. 07We wrote way more about ceramides at ceramide 1, so click here to know more.
  8. 08We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
  9. 09It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined w…
  10. 10Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules (polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules (glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. It’s approved by Ecocert and also used in the food industry (E415).
  11. 11It's a common little helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula.
  12. 12It seems to us that squalane is in fashion and there is a reason for it. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a…
  13. 13It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. As f.c. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are "emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL pre…
  14. 14Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. It is excellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, like seborrhea or fungal acne.
  15. 15The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>
  16. 16A goodie plant oil coming from the polyphenol-rich seeds of the grape. It's a light emollient oil that makes your skin feel smooth and nice and also contains a bunch of good-for-the-skin stuff. It's a great source of antioxidant polyphenols, barrier…
  17. 17An easy-to-formulate, commonly used, nice to have ingredient that’s also called pro-vitamin B5. As you might guess from the “pro” part, it’s a precursor to vitamin B5 (whose fancy name is pantothenic acid).
  18. 18Its main job in skincare products is to moisturise the skin. It’s a humectant meaning that it can help the skin to attract water and then hold onto it. There is also research showing that panthenol can help our skin to produce more lovely lipids tha…
  19. 19Another great thing about panthenol is that it has anti-inflammatory and skin protecting abilities. A study shows that it can reduce the irritation caused by less-nice other ingredients (e.g. fragrance, preservatives or chemical sunscreens) in the p…
  20. 20Research also shows that it might be useful for wound healing as it promotes fibroblast (nice type of cells in our skin that produce skin-firming collagen) proliferation.
Source · incidecoder.com
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