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Skin science article

Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask Versus Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Mask

Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask Versus Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Mask This barrier-repair overnight mask is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This wash off mask is made with Borago Officinalis Seed Oi

Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask Versus Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Mask

This barrier-repair overnight mask is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This wash off mask is made with Borago Officinalis Seed Oil and Oenothera Biennis Oil for a rinse-off hydration boost.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Squalane

Butylene Glycol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Panthenol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Cetearyl Glucoside

Lactobacillus Ferment

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Allantoin

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium Metaphosphate

Madecassoside

Ectoin

Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Beta-Glucan

Asiaticoside

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Tocopherol

Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

7-Dehydrocholesterol

Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Lactobacillus Ferment, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Allantoin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Metaphosphate, Madecassoside, Ectoin, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Beta-Glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, 7-Dehydrocholesterol, Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Sorbitan Stearate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ethyl Macadamiate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate

Borago Officinalis Seed Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Fruit

Glycine Soja Sterols

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Sodium Hyaluronate

Retinyl Palmitate

Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine

Sclerotium Gum

Hectorite

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sorbitan Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sclerotium Gum, Hectorite, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Cetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.

Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.

Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.

Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.

As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  3. 03Pentylene Glycol
  4. 04Propylene Glycol
  5. 05Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
  6. 06Glycerin
  7. 07Sorbitol
  8. 08Tocopheryl Acetate
  9. 09Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  10. 10Xanthan Gum
  11. 11Butylene Glycol
  12. 12Panthenol
  13. 13Sodium Carbomer
  14. 14Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
  15. 15Alcohol
  16. 16Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
  17. 17Squalane
  18. 18Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
  19. 19Phenoxyethanol
  20. 20Sodium Hydroxide
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Moisturizer

Paula's Choice Calm Redness Moisturizer Paula's Choice Calm Redness Moisturizer ingredients explained: Sodium Hyaluronate⁠, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein⁠, Petrolatum⁠, Glycerin⁠, Hydrogenated L…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side