Skin science article
Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask Versus Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Mask
Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask Versus Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Mask This barrier-repair overnight mask is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This wash off mask is made with Borago Officinalis Seed Oi
Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask Versus Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Mask
This barrier-repair overnight mask is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This wash off mask is made with Borago Officinalis Seed Oil and Oenothera Biennis Oil for a rinse-off hydration boost.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Squalane
Butylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Panthenol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cetearyl Glucoside
Lactobacillus Ferment
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Propanediol
Niacinamide
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Allantoin
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Sodium Metaphosphate
Madecassoside
Ectoin
Dextrin
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Beta-Glucan
Asiaticoside
Madecassic Acid
Asiatic Acid
Tocopherol
Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
7-Dehydrocholesterol
Inonotus Obliquus Extract
Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Lactobacillus Ferment, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Allantoin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Metaphosphate, Madecassoside, Ectoin, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Beta-Glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, 7-Dehydrocholesterol, Inonotus Obliquus Extract
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Sorbitan Stearate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethyl Macadamiate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Fruit
Glycine Soja Sterols
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Linoleic Acid
Phospholipids
Sodium Hyaluronate
Retinyl Palmitate
Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine
Sclerotium Gum
Hectorite
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sorbitan Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sclerotium Gum, Hectorite, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Cetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!