Skin science article
Laneige Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream Moisturizer Versus innisfree Collagen Peptide Firming Ampoule Cream
Laneige Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream Moisturizer Versus innisfree Collagen Peptide Firming Ampoule Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramide AP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This a
Laneige Water Bank Blue Hyaluronic Cream Moisturizer Versus innisfree Collagen Peptide Firming Ampoule Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramide AP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
PPG-5 Caprylyl Ether
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Methyl Trimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Ceramide AP
1,2-Hexanediol
Stearyl Dimethicone
Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone
Cetyl Alcohol
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Panthenol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Propanediol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
Glyceryl Caprylate
Dextrin
Tromethamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Sorbitan Isostearate
Allantoin
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide NP
Parfum
Beta-Glucan
Cholesterol
Mannitol
Tocopherol
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, PPG-5 Caprylyl Ether, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Methyl Trimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Stearyl Dimethicone, Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Propanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Dextrin, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Parfum, Beta-Glucan, Cholesterol, Mannitol, Tocopherol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Squalane
Dibutyl Adipate
Sucrose Polystearate
Sea Water
Niacinamide
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Extensin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Metaphosphate
Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Adenosine
Caprylyl Glycol
Artemisia Vulgaris Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Santalum Album Oil
Achillea Millefolium Extract
Myristic Acid
Arachidic Acid
Glycine Max Polypeptide
Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Acetyl Heptapeptide-4
Soluble Collagen
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Sodium Hydroxide
Hexapeptide-9
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Methyl Trimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Sucrose Polystearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sea Water, Niacinamide, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Stearic Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dextrin, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Metaphosphate, Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Artemisia Vulgaris Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Santalum Album Oil, Propanediol, Mannitol, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Myristic Acid, Arachidic Acid, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Acrylates/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Tocopherol, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Ceramide NP, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hydroxide, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Octapeptide-3
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
This synthetic peptide is a signal peptide, meaning it tells your skin to create more collagen and elastin.
According to a manufacturer, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11 helps improve skin elasticity and firmness.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Dextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.
Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.
In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.
This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.
Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.
Typical real-world usage is much lower: usually under 1% as a texture modifier and up to 40% in masks (rinse off products use less).
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic with skin soothing properties. Postbiotics are inactive molecules produced by probiotic bacteria that provide skin benefits.
This ingredient comes from the secretion of the bacteria, Lactobacillus.
Studies show this ingredient can help calm redness and may help treat the signs of photoaging; however, the evidence is inconclusive and further studies are needed.
Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.
Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.
Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.
Mannitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a humectant and moisturizes the skin. In vitro (not tested on a living organism), mannitol displays antioxidant properties.
When found in aqueous solutions, mannitol tends to become acidic. This is because it loses a hydrogen ion. This is why mannitol can often be found with pH adjusting ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate.
Fun fact: Mannitol can be found in foods as a sweetener. It can be naturally found in mushrooms, algae, fruits, and veggies.
Methyl Trimethicone is a type of silicone. It is a solvent and emulsifier.
Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.
Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.
Methyl Trimethicone does not get absorbed into the skin.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is an emollient that helps make your skin smooth and hydrated. It specializes in creating a non-oily and "wet" feeling on skin.
This ingredient comes from isostearic acid, a saturated fatty acid. It is a synthetic ingredient.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.