Mary & May Calendula Peptide Ageless Sleeping Mask Versus AXIS - Y Biome Recharging Enhanced Night Balm

Mary & May Calendula Peptide Ageless Sleeping Mask Versus AXIS - Y Biome Recharging Enhanced Night Balm

This anti-aging overnight mask is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Alcohol Denat.

Methylpropanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Betaine

Dipropylene Glycol

Gardenia Taitensis Callus Extract

Oak Root Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Orchid Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Panthenol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Glycerin

Tromethamine

Butylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Dextrin

Sodium Phytate

Ceramide NP

Tocopherol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Oligopeptide-6

Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-2

Dipeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Tripeptide-2

Nonapeptide-1

Pentapeptide-3

Tripeptide-3

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Dipeptide-4

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Guaiazulene

Parfum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Alcohol Denat., Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Dipropylene Glycol, Gardenia Taitensis Callus Extract, Oak Root Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Orchid Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glycerin, Tromethamine, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dextrin, Sodium Phytate, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Oligopeptide-6, Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-2, Nonapeptide-1, Pentapeptide-3, Tripeptide-3, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Dipeptide-4, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Guaiazulene, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Polyglycerin-3

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Carbomer

Fructooligosaccharides

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Copaifera Officinalis Resin

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Beta-Glucan

Bifida Ferment Filtrate

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Polyglycerin-3, Betaine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Fructooligosaccharides, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Dextrin, Butylene Glycol, Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Beta-Glucan, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Dextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.

Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.

In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.

This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.

Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.

Typical real-world usage is much lower: usually under 1% as a texture modifier and up to 40% in masks (rinse off products use less).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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