Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Mary & May Calendula Peptide Ageless Sleeping Mask Versus Laneige Water Sleeping Mask

Mary & May Calendula Peptide Ageless Sleeping Mask Versus Laneige Water Sleeping Mask This anti-aging overnight mask is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This hydrating overni

Mary & May Calendula Peptide Ageless Sleeping Mask Versus Laneige Water Sleeping Mask

This anti-aging overnight mask is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This hydrating overnight mask is formulated around Ceramide AP and Squalane to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Alcohol Denat.

Methylpropanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Betaine

Dipropylene Glycol

Gardenia Taitensis Callus Extract

Oak Root Extract

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Orchid Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Panthenol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Glycerin

Tromethamine

Butylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Dextrin

Sodium Phytate

Ceramide NP

Tocopherol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Oligopeptide-6

Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-2

Dipeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Tripeptide-2

Nonapeptide-1

Pentapeptide-3

Tripeptide-3

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Dipeptide-4

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Guaiazulene

Parfum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Alcohol Denat., Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Dipropylene Glycol, Gardenia Taitensis Callus Extract, Oak Root Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Orchid Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glycerin, Tromethamine, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dextrin, Sodium Phytate, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Oligopeptide-6, Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-2, Nonapeptide-1, Pentapeptide-3, Tripeptide-3, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Dipeptide-4, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Guaiazulene, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin

Methyl Trimethicone

Ceramide AP

Squalane

Phenyl Trimethicone

PCA Dimethicone

Caprylyl Methicone

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Carbomer

Propanediol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Disodium EDTA

Raffinose

Stearyl Behenate

Malachite Extract

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Niacinamide

Tryptophan

Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea

Beta-Glucan

Limonene

Saururus Chinensis Extract

Acorus Gramineus Extract

Linalool

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Methyl Trimethicone, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalane, Phenyl Trimethicone, PCA Dimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Carbomer, Propanediol, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Raffinose, Stearyl Behenate, Malachite Extract, Parfum, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Niacinamide, Tryptophan, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Beta-Glucan, Limonene, Saururus Chinensis Extract, Acorus Gramineus Extract, Linalool, Tocopherol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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