Skin science article
MediCube Deep Reviving Peptide Eye Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
MediCube Deep Reviving Peptide Eye Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles. This chemical sunscreen c
MediCube Deep Reviving Peptide Eye Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylpropanediol
Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane
Butylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Dipropylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Panthenol
Niacinamide
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Copper Tripeptide-1
Squalane
Glyceryl Stearate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Cetearyl Olivate
C14-22 Alcohols
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Sorbitan Olivate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Polysorbate 60
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
1,2-Hexanediol
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dimethiconol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Saccharide Hydrolysate
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Fructooligosaccharides
Allantoin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Caprylyl Glycol
Pullulan
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Adenosine
Sorbitan Laurate
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Myristyl Alcohol
Myristic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Glucose
Arachidic Acid
Lauryl Alcohol
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide NP
Atelocollagen
Desamido Collagen
Oleic Acid
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Soluble Collagen
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Collagen
Collagen Amino Acids
Procollagen
Magnesium PCA
Serine
Sucrose
Glycine
Calcium Chloride
Sea Salt
Alanine
Magnesium Chloride
Threonine
Histidine
Aspartic Acid
Valine
Proline
Dipotassium Phosphate
Lysine
Leucine
Tyrosine
Isoleucine
Magnesium Citrate
Glucosamine Hcl
Phenylalanine
Glutamic Acid
Arginine
1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide
Asparagine
Citrulline
Methionine
Taurine
Tryptophan
Formic Acid
Glutamine
Cysteine
Parfum
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Cetearyl Olivate, C14-22 Alcohols, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethiconol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Fructooligosaccharides, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Pullulan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Adenosine, Sorbitan Laurate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Myristyl Alcohol, Myristic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Glucose, Arachidic Acid, Lauryl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Atelocollagen, Desamido Collagen, Oleic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Collagen, Collagen Amino Acids, Procollagen, Magnesium PCA, Serine, Sucrose, Glycine, Calcium Chloride, Sea Salt, Alanine, Magnesium Chloride, Threonine, Histidine, Aspartic Acid, Valine, Proline, Dipotassium Phosphate, Lysine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Isoleucine, Magnesium Citrate, Glucosamine Hcl, Phenylalanine, Glutamic Acid, Arginine, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Asparagine, Citrulline, Methionine, Taurine, Tryptophan, Formic Acid, Glutamine, Cysteine, Parfum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylyl Methicone
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Carbomer
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Xanthan Gum
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
This ingredient is also called sugarcane extract. It is a moisturizing humectant and has skin soothing properties.
Similar to hyaluronic acid, sugarcane can attract moisture to your skin.
Glycolic acid is a derivative of sugarcane. While glycolic acid is an AHA with exfoliating properties, sugarcane is not an AHA.
A study from 2021 found the compounds in sugarcane extract to have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activity. The study also suggests these compounds can inhibit skin ageing enzymes and promote collagen synthesis.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!