Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

MediCube Triple Collagen Serum Versus MEDI-PEEL Red Lacto Collagen Ampoule

MediCube Triple Collagen Serum Versus MEDI-PEEL Red Lacto Collagen Ampoule This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactobacillus Ferment t

MediCube Triple Collagen Serum Versus MEDI-PEEL Red Lacto Collagen Ampoule

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Lactobacillus Ferment to soften the look of wrinkles and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Sea Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

1,2-Hexanediol

Alcohol Denat.

Niacinamide

Glycereth-26

Adenosine

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Soluble Collagen

Collagen Extract

Atelocollagen

Propanediol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Trehalose

Carbomer

Cetearyl Olivate

Tromethamine

Cyclohexasiloxane

Sorbitan Olivate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Disodium EDTA

Dimethicone

Parfum

Sea Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Alcohol Denat., Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Collagen Extract, Atelocollagen, Propanediol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Trehalose, Carbomer, Cetearyl Olivate, Tromethamine, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Dimethicone, Parfum

Water

Diglycerin

Isopropyl Palmitate

Lactobacillus Ferment

Polyquaternium-51

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Arginine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Bifida Ferment Filtrate

Lactococcus Ferment

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Castanea Crenata Shell Extract

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract

Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil

Barosma Betulina Leaf Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract

Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract

Glycine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Alanine

Lysine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Threonine

Valine

Proline

Isoleucine

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Histidine

Methionine

Cysteine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Water, Glycerin, Diglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Isopropyl Palmitate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Polyquaternium-51, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Lactococcus Ferment, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Adenosine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Disodium EDTA, Barosma Betulina Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Alanine, Lysine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine, Proline, Isoleucine, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.

Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.

As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycereth-26
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Polyglycerin-3
  5. 05Butylene Glycol
  6. 061,2-Hexanediol
  7. 07Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate
  8. 08Niacinamide
  9. 09Trehalose
  10. 10Hydrolyzed Collagen
  11. 11Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  12. 12Xylitylglucoside
  13. 13Lactobacillus Ferment
  14. 14Xylitol
  15. 15Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
  16. 16Bacillus Ferment
  17. 17Xylose
  18. 18Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract
  19. 19Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  20. 20Pentylene Glycol
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Coxir Black Snail Collagen Serum

Coxir Black Snail Collagen Serum Ingredients in Coxir Black Snail Collagen Serum explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 30 ingredients including Water, Glycerin, and Propyl…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side