Skin science article
Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer Versus Urban Skin Even Tone Night Treatment
Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer Versus Urban Skin Even Tone Night Treatment This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening treatment is formulated around Hy
Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer Versus Urban Skin Even Tone Night Treatment
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening treatment is formulated around Hydroquinone and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Squalane
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Niacinamide
Stearyl Alcohol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Pantolactone
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Panthenol
Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil
Honokiol
Magnolol
Palmitic Acid
Sorbitan Oleate
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Stearic Acid
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate
1,2-Hexanediol
Boron Nitride
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Isohexadecane
Butylene Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan Palmitate
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Benzoate
Carbomer
Sodium Lactate
Phenoxyethanol
Polysorbate 20
Citric Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Stearyl Alcohol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Pantolactone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil, Honokiol, Magnolol, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Stearic Acid, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Boron Nitride, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Isohexadecane, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Hydroquinone
Hyaluronic Acid
Kojic Acid
Retinol
Alpha-Arbutin
Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Morus Bombycis Root Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Malva Sylvestris Extract
Mentha Piperita Extract
Primula Veris Extract
Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract
Veronica Officinalis Extract
Melilotus Officinalis Extract
Achillea Millefolium Extract
Tocopherol
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Laureth-7
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Polyacrylamide
Water, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Hydroquinone, Squalane, Hyaluronic Acid, Kojic Acid, Retinol, Alpha-Arbutin, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Morus Bombycis Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Malva Sylvestris Extract, Mentha Piperita Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Veronica Officinalis Extract, Melilotus Officinalis Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Laureth-7, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polyacrylamide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!