Skin science article
Naturium Niacinamide Gel Cream 5% Versus The INKEY List Multi-Biotic Moisturizer
Naturium Niacinamide Gel Cream 5% Versus The INKEY List Multi-Biotic Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and fade the look of dark spots. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated arou
Naturium Niacinamide Gel Cream 5% Versus The INKEY List Multi-Biotic Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and fade the look of dark spots.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Inulin and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Niacinamide
Propanediol
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Juice
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Alteromonas Ferment Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sea Water
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glycerin
Isohexadecane
Sorbitan Oleate
Butylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Caprylyl Glycol
Polysorbate 80
Hexadecene
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Tocopherol
Water, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Juice, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sea Water, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Sorbitan Oleate, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Hexadecene, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopherol
Inulin
Isoamyl Laurate
Squalane
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
Yogurt Powder
Sodium Caproyl Prolinate
Carbomer
Isoamyl Cocoate
Benzyl Alcohol
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Polysorbate 60
Citric Acid
Heptapeptide-7
Lecithin
Xanthan Gum
Sorbitan Isostearate
Water, Inulin, Glycerin, Isoamyl Laurate, Propanediol, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Yogurt Powder, Sodium Caproyl Prolinate, Carbomer, Isoamyl Cocoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Citric Acid, Heptapeptide-7, Lecithin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!